by oldmansurfer » Sat Apr 02, 2016 5:38 am
Here is what I wrote about the Holiday waves
Christmas eve I went out to the middle of the bay sandbar and surfed on my 7'6" old man board and the waves were tricky. When I first went out there was a dad and his kids surfing there and I saw on the side of the place they were lined up there was a nice looking wave that came in and went unridden. So I made an approximate lineup for that spot and another on the other side of them. After I got out they went in and a guy on a soft top went out. He was ridding the break they were riding and ending up right in front of me. There were three waves that I thought were good but he was directly inside of me. So I figured enough of this and paddled over to the other side of him but while i was paddling a set came in and it broke way outside so I went there. It was too long of a wait so I paddled inside and after ahile the guy left the break so I paddled back to the original lineup and waited for another wave like the other three. I took off and had a steep drop but was unable to keep up with the wave and had to straighten out. Oh well.
I went out Christmas morning to middle Horner's (left breaking reef). It was tricky once again. The waves were doubling up. I did manage to get some really steep drops which I love. The first one was too steep and I went airborne and kicked my board out and cannon ball dropped down to the bottom. No video today because I decided to go without the helmet cam because it's too much of a distraction. It's much more enjoyable without it.
Sat Dec 26, 2015 1:02 pm
I went out today in the middle sand bar break It was over head to head high and most of the waves jut pitched over then crumbled but there were some walls to carve. I had a lot of late frontside drops and a couple of long walls that allowed me to make a bunch of turns. My best wave was a set wave from way outside. It pitched up and threw over and went crumbly, I got a late drop and made it to the edge of the foam and could see it was going to wall up so I edged over a bit and just before the lip pitched over I did a forward unweighting hop right up to under the lip and jammed a turn back down the wave before it broke. This gave me enough speed to make the walled up section and I did a bunch of top to bottom turns. I wanted to jam a hard cutback on the end and got ready but it just jumped up and closed out before I could react. Probably should have went for a floater but too slow to react. Really stoked to have that wave. It's been a while since I had a long wall to carve . I had one other wave that I did a bunch of turns on but I was slightly off of the right place on my board even though I tried to adjust my feet a couple times when I had a split second to spare. Even though it felt off I did a bunch of turns and rode the wave reasonably well.
Sun Dec 27, 2015 3:43 pm
Well I did it. Four days in a row of surfing. Today I didn't catch any long walls to carve but it was fun and even though the forecast was for bigger surf it was slightly smaller but I went out to the outside lineup and had to fight with myself for the waves. LOL I guess since it's only me I have a wide variety of choices. I think if I had more time I would have made better choices but came out feeling good and happy (and stiff)
Fri Jan 01, 2016 2:11 pm
New years eve around waist high waves with very unusual conditions, offshore winds. I had to learn how to read those waves because 99 percent of the time I am surfing onshore winds. I probably should have surfed it more aggressively because the waves were so weak they never knocked me off my board no matter what. But it was fun and uncrowded. New years day was smaller almost flat but waves were breaking here and there very small. I went to the rivermouth and surfed a break there it was maybe waist high. Weak waves, I caught one wave and rode it for 20 yards and it didn't break, I kept going hoping it would (I was on my 7'6" board). Good exercise and I always feel better after surfing.
un Jan 03, 2016 12:48 pm
The last 2 days of my 4 days of new years surfing were smaller and bigger than the first two. Yesterday I went back to the rivermouth and only caught a couple of waves due to current from the river because the waves were even smaller so no current from the waves bu the river was flowing out and creating it's own current. I did catch a couple of hollow waves although too small for my shoulder to get covered. Today I went out to Blackrock which is about 600 yards out. It was head high and fun but there were a bunch of SUPers out. I forgot to time my paddle out but at 10 minutes I had caught a wave and paddled back out.
I forgot to mention I caught a wave today that did not break and rode it for 30 yards on my 7'6" "Imitation Average Joe" funboard. Mostly it involved staying in the sweet spot on my board which is forward from where I usually ride it, but I also ran out on the nose and jumped up and down a couple times to get it to go back down the wave as it was starting to wall up again but it ended up not breaking again. Riding waves that aren't breaking is a skill I learned long ago to connect outside breaks to inside breaks but these days I usually do it while trying to figure out the break (ie which waves to catch or not)
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.