Eh bra! I'm doing a research paper on surfing!!

[ProSurfNoob]

Hi, i'm a college student doing a research paper on surfing. On the evolution of surfboards, technology, wave dynamics, and what makes a wave good, all that on the scientific side, yea my english teacher is someone that is hooked on science. He loves the idea to connect art to science. Just like Surf to science. He explained to me that Skateboarding has a lot of math into it. And I know that Wave are associated with the fibbonacci number
(@2:09 shows an example of it)

So, my thoughts were to first find the video game Transworld xbox which ever console, and see the making of it, if they would have gone through some fun stuff. But I couldn't find any!! Would you guys know anything? At first I thought this would be pretty easy, but to connect on a scientific point of view… gosh!! Mau uru uru!

evolution of surfboards, technology, wave dynamics, what makes a good wave.

[garbarrage]

Might try looking these guys up. Although they seem to have spent a bit of money coming up with the design so not sure how forthcoming they might be with info. sciencey people like keeping their secrets.

Still pretty cool anyway... if I had the cash definitely consider getting one built in my back garden. Would rock!!

[esonscar]

ProSurfNoob :

I am a real surfing scientist too !

I hope your research goes well and you have a good time writing your paper.
Something you need to consider with respect to a good wave is .... Human perception !
When all said and done a good wave is only deemed good if the rider enjoyed the ride.
Having said that, I guess you as a scientist can at this point define a good wave and work to research what makes your defined 'good wave'.

Ooooheee - loads of fun ahead !

Let us know how you do - and hey - post the paper when you are done for us all to read !

[perusurf]

Some say surfing first started in hawaii, some in polinessia some in peru, checking out dates, seems like the pre-inca men using "caballitos de totora" for fishing to set their nets out in the sea, on their way back they surfed the waves in, these caballitos de totora are used till nowadays and fishermen still ride them, i have a friend here in punta hermosa that was the first(and only) nut to try surfing pico alto in one of these things, it was a small day for pico alto, it starts breaking at about 3meters(on a big day it could get 8+meters) i saw him eat it big time several times haha, he did get to finally make the drop in one, there are pictures, i just don't have them....hmmm...anyway, i hope that helped a little................