Surfing Waves

I really really did! I still can't believe it

i went to the beach intending to sit under a palm tree all day, listening to music and having a gentle swim but when i got there there were WAVES (it was totally flat last time I was there).

There were 3 guys already surfing it, but I didn't have my board. I wasn't going to pass up an opportunity like that, so I walked about a quarter of a mile to the nearest hire place, carried one back and went in.

This is going to sound wierd, but i actually found it easier in some ways (not others!) than surfing in england as it was flat either side of the wave so you could paddle out from the left without a problem and then make it to the wave. also, there was no wind to contend with (well, not much) and the waves were all clean and green! it didn't break till it got right to the shore. I sat around for a while wetting myslef at the thought of surfing there, then went for it.

I paddled my little heart out, dropped down the wave (which seemed HUGE to me) clung on to my board and then crouched on it. The wave was way over my head and it was moving so fast it all happened so quick. I reckon it was about 6ft - i know that's not exactly huge, but this is me we're talking about and it was pipe, which made it very scary!!!

I fell off, like you do and clung to my board while these huge waves tossed me all around and then i was qute literally spat out of the ocean. One minute I'm in about 4-5ft on water, not being able to touch the bottom, and the next minute i was thrown onto dry sand! it was the wierdest thing. It tried to suck me back in and I got caught in a continous shoredump which scared me a bit, but I made it out.

The lifeguards had been keeping an eye on me, as I warned them I was probably going to die out there!!!! and they cheered when i got out. it was so cool. one of them actually told me I did really well out there (I think he meant well done for not needing him to come in and rescue me!)

I don't have any proof that I ever did it. I was gutted. The big hawaiian lifeguard went off for a bit, came back and gave me the most amazing shell ffrom the shore of pipe. It twists round with this gap in the middle and looks so beautiful. he suggested I put it on a necklace and wear it as a reminder of my surf there. Once i find a suitable necklace I'm NEVER going to take it off!

I still can't believe i did it. I don't care that the waves weren't huge. I just feels so good to have accomplished something like that!

I'm having the best time in Hawaii!


(edited to include developed pics!)

Surfing pipeline in the summer is no big deal. Try it again in 6 months.

It is a big deal!!

Nice one Thaya!! Glad to hear you're having a wicked time!!

That sound brilliant!

I wish I could say I'd surfed pipeline.

Mavericks here you come!

Thaya what a wonderful post, I feel really stoked for you babes, go girl!

Stoked for you Thaya, sounds fantastic

boco rio wrote:Surfing pipeline in the summer is no big deal. Try it again in 6 months.

yeah ok

wish i could say i had surfed 6ft pipeline ,well done thaya

6 foot face though yeah?

nice one thaya.

first time i went to pipe i was sitting on the beach and it was 12 ft hawaiian scale and the lifegaurd told me im a townie and not to go out. i did anyway. i got thrown around a bit but it was ok.

sounds awesome, are you sure it was 6ft though?

I spent three summers on Oahu and the north shore almost never breaks this time of year. Most of the swells come from the south, so I cann't imagine much of a swell hitting pipe now. The best places to surf in the summer are on the south facing beaches like ala monana.

Anyways, glad you had fun surfing anywhere on Oahu.

http://magicseaweed.com/Pipeline-Surf-Report/616/


looking fairly shite for the week, maybe that swell came out of nowhere

Surf Report Wednesday 8/8/07

Aloha, this is Kekoa with the report for Wednesday morning at 6:00 AM.
SURF:
Flat and poor conditions.

Tiny boost from ENE tradeswell wrap, but most locations are flat. Smooth ocean surface this morning. Expect stronger trades on the Fat High Tide during the mid-day.

WEATHER:
Mostly sunny after a few isolated light showers mainly over windward and mountain areas. ENE Trades in the 10 to 20 mph range. Beaches should be dry, sunny, and hot this afternoon.

NORTH SHORE'S REGIONAL OVERVIEW:
Another picture perfect summertime day on the north shore with beautiful beach weather and minimal surf. The ENE Tradeswell wrap continues to provide some tiny, rideable wavelets lapping up on the most exposed reefs in the knee to waist high range. Much better conditions for those usual flat day hobbies such as fishing, swimming, diving, paddling, and any other ocean activity that doesn't require surf. Fat High Tide peaks around mid-day will create slow/fat conditions, but some waves should start breaking again in the afternoon as tide drops. The ocean surface is very calm and smooth early this morning due to the lack of wind. The ENE Trades will increase later today in the 10 to 20 mph range and this should make more typical side/offshore conditions for the exposed locations in the afternoon. Could have some decent wind/kite surfing potential in the afternoon as the land heats up and increases wind speeds.

http://www.surfline.com/reports/report.cfm?id=4750

Man Thaya....I am so stoked for ya now. You surfed pipe....thats something.

Nice one.
I'd be stoked just to paddle out at pieline and swim around even if it was flat. There's something about being in the water at a famous break that can break big that even with no or little swell forecast it's still a great experience.
Good to hear your getting waves.

KS

hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:first time i went to pipe i was sitting on the beach and it was 12 ft hawaiian scale and the lifegaurd told me im a townie and not to go out. i did anyway. i got thrown around a bit but it was ok.

sounds awesome, are you sure it was 6ft though?

So the very first time you surfed pipe it was 12 ft hawaiian scale? So 24ft faces? And you only got thrown around a bit!

Niiice. stoked for you

Like Kitey says - just to be in the water at a famous break (especially perhaps THE most famous) would do for most of us!

Really, REALLY happy for you Thaya!!

kitesurfer wrote:

hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:first time i went to pipe i was sitting on the beach and it was 12 ft hawaiian scale and the lifegaurd told me im a townie and not to go out. i did anyway. i got thrown around a bit but it was ok.

sounds awesome, are you sure it was 6ft though?

So the very first time you surfed pipe it was 12 ft hawaiian scale? So 24ft faces? And you only got thrown around a bit! :roll:

haw. scale 12 ft. = 16 - 18 ft right? it isnt always just mutiplied by 2, thats only when the waves are smaller. but youre right. it was more like 12 ft face. i caught one good wave that day. but the only thing really hard about it was paddling back in shore.

awsome story thaya, sounds like your having an awsome time. Id love to be where you are now