Surfing Waves

I realized that the only time I ever paddle out and get on the green waves is when it's waist high at the most.....anytime it's bigger than that it breaks way further out then I want to go and I just kind of surf in the soup. Does that make me a kook, or just a newbie who's not ready to take the next step yet?

Seriously though, it's hard to get a 9'6 out there anyway when it's breaking big outside and you have to power through like 3 walls of whitewash to get there.

Depends how big and poweful the whitewater is that you have to get through.

Sometimes I've gone all out to get out back, managed to catch a wave that put me back inside and then not been able to get out again - but I like long rides.....

Some of the guys who sit out back only ever seem to catch a wave, stay on it for 1 or 2 seconds and then bail to save themselves the paddle.....

As long as you're having fun, then who cares............

Look for breaks in the sets, paddle between the peaks. There is an old guy i see out a lot on a log. grey beard must be in his mid to late fifties, he's always out in head high plus on his log.

Ol' DZ wrote:I realized that the only time I ever paddle out and get on the green waves is when it's waist high at the most.....anytime it's bigger than that it breaks way further out then I want to go and I just kind of surf in the soup. Does that make me a kook, or just a newbie who's not ready to take the next step yet?

Seriously though, it's hard to get a 9'6 out there anyway when it's breaking big outside and you have to power through like 3 walls of whitewash to get there.

Join the club mate...in my book being a kook is more about attitutde than ability.

its all about attitude.

Do you prance around on the beach and pretend you're a really good surfer?

if no then you're not a kook.

Dude, I'm the same and I don't have a log...

I play in the white wash for the first 1/2 hour in, helps me warm up. I start by riding in on my belly, then try and catch some white water by this time i`m all warmed up and ready to battle through the wash.

If i don1t i struggle

Sometimes Im in the mood for one big ride... other times Im happier to play in waist high water and get a ride every other minute.

If anyone calls you a kook, just tell 'em 'nah, Im a small wave ripper'

Here you go a bit of inspiration for you, this guy can do it.

Agreed, it's your attitude. If you're out there in the water, giving it your best shot, you're no kook. If you go around pretending you have great sessions but no one ever seems to see you riding, you're a kook.

Otter wrote:Agreed, it's your attitude. If you're out there in the water, giving it your best shot, you're no kook. If you go around pretending you have great sessions but no one ever seems to see you riding, you're a kook.

Watch out Otter, I had a good session for me today. I had 2 up and downs and two nice rides. For me that aint a bad session. All took place in an 1hr. and 20 min.

your all kooks hahaha

Just being honest about your abilities either while posting on this board or talking to the guys at your local break makes you a respectful surfer, regardless of ability. Your no kook, I admire your integrity.

justloafing wrote:

Otter wrote:Agreed, it's your attitude. If you're out there in the water, giving it your best shot, you're no kook. If you go around pretending you have great sessions but no one ever seems to see you riding, you're a kook.

Watch out Otter, I had a good session for me today. I had 2 up and downs and two nice rides. For me that aint a bad session. All took place in an 1hr. and 20 min.

Congratz on the session, I'm sure it was memorable. Wish I could have been there.

bgdkmetzger2003 wrote:your all kooks hahaha

Maybe "Kooky" but for the most part I think the members are not kooks.

Otter if I had you on the "Right Coast" for a week I am sure I would improve a ton. I am sort of teaching myself.

Well, I'm not trying to say I don't try. The other day I spent about an hour and a half mostly paddling out and getting washed back in, takin a break, then doing it all over again but I got one REALLY good ride that made it all worth it. It was cool because it was a fairly big wave (by my standards), maybe chest high and pretty green when I caught it. It felt like I was going like 60 miles an hour, it was great.

Anyway back on topic, I guess my kooky style of surfing is not quite as abnormal as I thought. I'm pretty sure I'll never be the kind of guy that "rips", but I have fun and I don't go making a show out of being a surfer or anything, so I guess I'm pretty true to myself. To tell the truth, I'm pretty proud of how well I'm doing this summer compared to last (can you imagine how kooky and un-surferlike last summer was? )

justloafing,
You go for it brotherman! It's desire more than anything else that matters in learning to surf. If you want it bad enough, you'll get it. I know, I wasn't real fast at learning myself, but once you get it... You'll hit this certain point where you'll know that you belong in the lineup with the other "good" surfers. Keep the stoke Brah! Keep me posted, any tips I can give I'm glad to do so.

Go out have fun, and don't worry about what people think of you.

Otter wrote:justloafing,
You go for it brotherman! It's desire more than anything else that matters in learning to surf. If you want it bad enough, you'll get it. I know, I wasn't real fast at learning myself, but once you get it... You'll hit this certain point where you'll know that you belong in the lineup with the other "good" surfers. Keep the stoke Brah!

Yep it is desire. I have recently found out my board is probably not the easiest board to learn on (9' 0" Infinity Nose Rider). On the other hand I can feel now I am getting oh so close being able stand and ride on a consistent basis. I have made front turns and yesterday tried a backside turn. I think the wave ran out of power or something. The nose of my board started to wiggle and the wave(knee/thigh and soft) seemed to go by me. Why was the nose wiggling(left to right). My best guess it was my balance was off.

..there are like 3 beaches in this country where over the last three years the locals must be like .. "dude.. here he comes again " .. im guessing the only reason no one gives me any crap about my painfully annoying lack of ability ..is the fact that i walk into the water humble and sometime later!.. walk back out again humble... but with a bigger smile