Surfing Waves

Was just thinking about this last night, alot of times when I go for waves I get thrown over the falls and after that it is impossible to stand up (those of you who have would know what I'm talking about, like trying to stand up on a massive pot of boiling water ). So theoretically when should you pop up on a wave to avoid going over the falls?

I decided I should post on this after I was thrown over a 6ft (quite possible bigger) wall of water into another wave crashing in front of me and was washed about 50 yards or so back into shore.

As something of an expert in going over the falls, I feel qualified to answer this one

Going over the falls is usually a combination of one or more of these...
1) Going for a wave too late.
2) Being too far forward on your board.
3) Not standing up immediately so that the tail of the board tips over your head.

So go for the wave earlier, arch your back and/or move back a touch, and stand up immediately then turn away from the breaking section and get onto the face.

There's a fine line between pearling and stalling - it can be as little a an inch either way! Mark a line on your board and then adjust your position either way till you find the sweet spot for both paddling and catching waves.

Once you've done that, put another mark on the board (line in the wax, etc) to mark that sweet spot - but use it as a guide only!

If you're in big surf, find yourself paddling late or find the wave pitching steeper than you thought, then you need to slide yourself back a couple of inches just as the wave picks you up - or jam your feet down hard on the back of the board - if it's the other way (small wave, slow wave, etc) then either slide yourself forward or simply bring your heels up to your backside in order to shift the weight forward.

If it all goes to a ball of chalk, just grab onto those rails and enjoy the ride!!

I had a period of time that every time i went surfing i was going over the falls. And by reading what dbb has said, he is most probably right.

drowningbitbybit wrote:As something of an expert in going over the falls

its true he is. pretty funny really

but yeah dont try and take off too late it always ends in tears. or a big macking drop which can be fun on its own. dont forget to commit. half arsed takeoffs often lead to the falls too...

surferdude_scarborough wrote:but yeah dont try and take off too late it always ends in tears. or a big macking drop which can be fun on its own.

You cant beat a big macking drop.

surferdude_scarborough wrote:dont forget to commit. half arsed takeoffs often lead to the falls too...

Dunno why, but yeah they do. Somehow the mechanism of Abort! Abort! Abort! makes it far worse than Go! Go! Go!

riding something like a fish with a flat rocker in steep waves usually leads to things going wrong too.

surferdude_scarborough wrote:riding something like a fish with a flat rocker in steep waves usually leads to things going wrong too.

Thats why a certain Mr Harmergeddon was called in. That can take silly silly drops. Macking doesnt even cover it

hes good is that harmergeddon bloke.

surferdude_scarborough wrote:hes good is that harmergeddon bloke.

Except that he's colour blind.

lol mines green enough neways no shame in having a pink board

<<<

I can do a late drop on my fish.

Oh apart from the 2-3ft day at Sandsend.

surferdude_scarborough wrote:riding something like a fish with a flat rocker in steep waves usually leads to things going wrong too.

if you think hes good at going over the falls on a fish you should see him on a longboard

ah yes the old faceplant incident had forgotten about that...

i think kitey deserves as honourable mention for going over the falls

thanks for the tips . and surferdude_scarborough that picture makes me feel pain to be honest, that must have hurt eh? I think I did one of those on Saturday. I should pay someone to shoot pictures of my wipeouts, you could probably make some cash off of it .

Phil wrote:if you think hes good at going over the falls on a fish you should see him on a longboard

Hey, I've successfully surfed your longboard now... but you're still rubbish on my fish