hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:ginat wrote:I can't believe you live right on the beach! Amazing!!! I think if I were you I'd just sleep all ready to surf the next day and roll out of bed every day feeling like a lucky dog!
dont you think youd get jaded to it? i can understand why people who cant go as often get so excited about it. but if you lived on the beach, things would be different. i would probably visit/swim/relax/play with my dog/smoke a spliff there every day but i would only surf when the waves are nice.
In my case, I doubt it. I'm pretty into the outdoors. Where I live is beautiful and I must think at least once a week that I'm lucky to be here too. Just rolling countryside with horses and cows and gorgeous trees. Beautiful. Somehow I think I would always feel lucky to be in California too if I lived there. This guy, imho, has it made!
