Surfing Waves

As much of a tough guy I try to be, I admitt I am slightly afraid of bigger waves. I have been surfing for almost 2 years now, my first board was a 9'2, second board is a 7'10, and i'm about to buy a shortboard around 6'5.

I am the kind of guy who isn't scared of anything. Ever since about 6 months into surfing I have always gone for the biggest waves in my home town. In a surf line up of about 70 people, I am the guy furthest out waiting for the biggest waves. I surf them because I love to take on things I can't beat.

I am all balls going into 8-12 feet waves, however I always have a fear of the drop. I can paddle into anything but once I start dropping I lose control and either pearl out or just not land on my board at all. Every time I paddle into a wave, I rise up and look down at a 10 foot vertical drop (might be exaggerating) and I flip out and fall off. It confuses me though because I am a very fast paddler and I dont understand why I rise up so much. It feels as if I have been practicing this forever.

Is it my board? Is it causing me to rise up too much? Will I have an easier time dropping in on a shortboard?
Or is it simply a fear of the drop? Should I just keep practicing untill I get it down?

Anybody have any advice on what to do? I was a little mad because there was a huge swell yesterday and I left without catching a single one of those big waves. Such a bad feeling...

Thanks,

Devin.

I think the best way to get comfortable with big drops is to just keep trying and getting pounded. Once your comfortable with the wipeout you won't be scared. Also try not to focus so much on the drop, because then you will think about falling, and then you will fall at the bottom even if you made the drop.

You're probably thinking about what you're doing to much. Enjoy the stoke! Let your muscle reactions take over and just dig the drop, enjoy the ride. Don't let the size intimidate you. What's the worst that can happen? You get your sinuses really cleaned out? Your leash snaps and you have to swim? Could be alot worse...

no guts no glory Jking.

The best advice i was given was to be prepared so everytime i paddle for a bigun iam prepared to take a big fall so it doesnt figure into my mind.

Like otter said the more you think about it the more chances you will make mistakes it should instictive.

Here is some stuff to remember. Seize the moment, seize the pain
It's just water

Isaluteyou,
We've gotta hook up man. Love to ride with ya!

Otter wrote:Isaluteyou,
We've gotta hook up man. Love to ride with ya!

Sounds good but im beach locked in Ob & the Cliffs The lack of wheels is kind of restricting

Bummer, we're planning a big Surfest at San O this Sunday, was hoping you could make it. Meeting up with some of my buds from

http://surfingsandiego.com

Got a few riders from OB as well. Sometime soon regardless!

That is if you don't mind riding with an older longboarder...

the drop is the worst thing, iv got a 9' board so i can catch the biggerwaves outback and not worry about a big drop, but i do know how you feel when you paddle in, then look down the face and start to worry abit, the best thing to do is to look down the line where your going to go because it wont be as steep there. good luck man

Ive taken a few good beatings in the water. On some big waves I did use to feel the fear of peraling. But after a good few beatings and practicing a lot, I overcome it and sometimes its fun to wipeout.
Its only water. Just remember to take care and cover your head safely when you wipeout, take a deep breath and you will be ok. Dont panic whilst your being pounded under the water, your lungs are big enough.

Once you practice on small waves and then work your way up to bigger waves you will feel a lot more comfoutable with the size.

a bit different as I needed the advice for the newbie I am but it may help....

https://surfing-waves.com/forum/view ... 73&start=0

when i did make the pop up I dont really remember it, it just kinda happend so I obviously wasnt thinking about it which helped so maybe on bigger days you're thinking about it more

Perhaps if you've just moved to a shorter board go for the easier breaks/smaller waves until you get used to it and build you're confidence up.

The guys who really know should correct me here, a bit of a guess -
8-12ft?! dont know much but if you loose control it suggests to me you may be popping up too late?? Try popping up earlier I guess so as the wave jacks up you're already riding and it doesnt cause you to pearl?

Good luck

Sar,
I've found that when waves break and are very steep, you don't always have an opportunity to take off earlier. These waves usually require you to be in the "pocket" or the "critical" spot in order to catch them at all. Some waves "jack" up at the last moment, and are uncatchable prior to that instant. I'm certain we've all gone out on days where it just seemed the waves either rolled by underneath you as you paddle your fanny off trying to catch it, or the wave jacks up behind you when you don't expect it to... you get a saltwater sandwhich in that instance, and you're the meat!

Coral,

A shorter board is usually easier when the waves are really jacking and steep as some folks have pointed out. But a shorter board requires harder paddling to get into the wave. Put it this way, if you can paddle fast enough for a wave that is just peaking up, you can get up and steer your board before allowing it to jack up in front of you. Having said that, not every wave breaks in the same manner. You may very well be in fear of the height and speed in which you are being propelled.

I would try some snowboarding every winter. It seems to help me get used steep and fast drops and gets my adrenaline pumping. Then sometimes it makes the waves don't seem so fast. Just a thought. Good luck.

Otter wrote:Sar,
I've found that when waves break and are very steep, you don't always have an opportunity to take off earlier. These waves usually require you to be in the "pocket" or the "critical" spot in order to catch them at all. Some waves "jack" up at the last moment, and are uncatchable prior to that instant. I'm certain we've all gone out on days where it just seemed the waves either rolled by underneath you as you paddle your fanny off trying to catch it, or the wave jacks up behind you when you don't expect it to... you get a saltwater sandwhich in that instance, and you're the meat!

Yo Otter, in the spirit of easing international communications...i'd just like to point out that fanny means something slightly different this side of the pond.

Luke252 wrote:

Otter wrote:Sar,
I've found that when waves break and are very steep, you don't always have an opportunity to take off earlier. These waves usually require you to be in the "pocket" or the "critical" spot in order to catch them at all. Some waves "jack" up at the last moment, and are uncatchable prior to that instant. I'm certain we've all gone out on days where it just seemed the waves either rolled by underneath you as you paddle your fanny off trying to catch it, or the wave jacks up behind you when you don't expect it to... you get a saltwater sandwhich in that instance, and you're the meat!

Yo Otter, in the spirit of easing international communications...i'd just like to point out that fanny means something slightly different this side of the pond.

Cheers Otter - I could only figure on that one from a hypothetical standpoint. Of course sometimes you're going to have to just get hammered by the water of miss every wave in a session - every wave and day is different - what makes it so great.

I've been surfing for 20-odd years and I still get the nerves at the top of a bigger wave.

I think it's as it rises up and you're about to stand, you're actually making it look even bigger in your mind. It's moving, you're moving away from it, you're looking straight down, vertigo, and suddenly a 4 foot drop is looking like 10.

Then suddenly, you're down it, coming up the face and notice it's only barely cresting past your shoulder and you want to smack yourself for being such a mary.

[quote]Anybody have any advice on what to do?

Think about sharks instead.

Banana wrote:

Anybody have any advice on what to do?

Think about sharks instead.

haha, not to many sharks in england....just in your neck of the woods....

^*^BATMAN^*^ wrote:

Banana wrote:

Anybody have any advice on what to do?

Think about sharks instead.

haha, not to many sharks in england....just in your neck of the woods....

Don`t know why, we have shed loads of seals.
Loving your avatar Batman, is that you