Surfing Waves

Ok, I don't know how to get this as a poll, but, is it time to give up?

I'm a musician. My hands earn my living.

I've been surfing for six weeks, and in that time I've cuts my fingers open twice on the fins, fractured two ribs on two seperate occaisions, cut my shin open on the fins in three places all in one go and today I left the water with an egg size bruise/lump on my knee after getting thrown about in 8 foot waves trying to get to the line up.

I've caught and stood up on handful of waves, which were fantastic.

Over to you guys........................................

I know how you feel, but you're getting a lot more damage in your six weeks than I sustained in my first few years of surfing. Maybe you need to dial down the wave size.

Last year I got a good sized gash in my head, even through the wet suit hood. I was mad at myself for not remembering to put my hands around my head when surfacing, but then realized that that could have been the end of my semi-pro piano career.

Maybe you should just stay with mellower conditions for a while.

Buy some gloves dude, they cost about 15 - 20 quid.

Also, 8 foot waves are probably a bit advanced for you at the moment, especially if your getting drilled as much as you seem to be.

But don't give up....you've obvously had a taste of how much fun it can be....just try starting somewhere a bit safer.

Seconded... Surfing six weeks and going through all that carnage?? If you've survived that, just take a breather, try some nice easy waves, and remember, surfing is meant to be all about enjoying yourself. Happy waves

Are you sure your surfing on the right side of the board?
Thats a lot of bad injuries in just 6 weeks. Never heard of something like that. Are you sure you have a good amount of wax on your board? That might be causing you to slip nastilly.
Otherwise wearing gloves and boots should protect your hands and feet form cuts

Laguna wrote:Are you sure your surfing on the right side of the board?
Thats a lot of bad injuries in just 6 weeks. Never heard of something like that. Are you sure you have a good amount of wax on your board? That might be causing you to slip nastilly.
Otherwise wearing gloves and boots should protect your hands and feet form cuts

I'm 6'3", weigh 160lbs and my board is 7'6", and is well waxed.
I think I've just been unlucky, but a few other guys that have surfed all over the world have said that they can't believe I'm trying to learn here, but I'm not the only one learning. I'm currently in the Canary Islands.

The waves here are a bit unforgiving, very hollow and steep.

Isn't there a beachbreak where you can surf. It sounds like you are surfing reefs.

Na no beach breaks, only rocky reefs here, and the one I'm at is the most friendly.

I'm just gonna keep at it. I think it's just stupid mistakes that I've been making, like letting the board get between me and the wave. I've had a couple of lessons, and read all the do's and don'ts, but when I get out there I get so freakin scared I just kind of forget what I'm sposed to be doing!!!!

Spose I'm just feeling sorry for myself, and as I can skateboard better than average, I made the big mistake of thinking it was gonna be easy.

Ahh man sorry to hear that!!

Ye I dont think you should be surfing dangerous breaks with a lot of reefs and nasty big waves. Not when learning anyway. You wont get anywhere. You need to find a safer place.

Where you surfing at Keef? What locations I mean, be specific as you can.

A reef is tough place to learn mate!
People can and do learn on reef breaks (look at Indo) but it aint gonna be easy!!!!
Reckon I'm not ready for the reefs of the Canarys - I've been surfing for a little over a year and do OK here on the beachies but reefs are fast, hollow and steep.
Stick with it and it'll click eventually!

Otter, I'm learning at El Cartel and K16 Tenerife, but I've also been to Fuerteventura.

Had a wicked day today, got waves stood up etc etc, even managed a left turn.

Thanks for all the encouragement. The locals here, well a few I've got to know are wicked, and really help with loads of tips and stuff.

Less of this

and more of this
from now on

Still scared, but not quite as much.............................

Good to hear things are getting better Keef...i had my first experience surfing in Tenerife 12 years back...(lived there for a while)

Just about to start again from scratch...properly this time....

You in Tenerife longterm?

So in 6 weeks of surfing you've broken your ribs 2x? How do you paddle with broken ribs (they take over 6 weeks to heal)? I couldn't even lay on a hard floor and arch my back up without extreme pain for about 8 weeks, I couldn't imaging laying on the board trying to paddle.

Keef, sounds like you're a magnet for injuries, but I think the rewards far outweigh the minor mishaps. Okay, so you broke a couple of ribs... they heal and you get back on your board. I pounded my head on the reef in Malibu and I needed 17 stiches to patch it up, I've sliced my lower back with my skeg surfing Haliewa which left a nasty scar. I've also cut my shin from another surfer bailing his board. Anyway, I don't think you should throw in the towel just yet.

answers;
Yes Tenerife for next six months or so, then maybe Oz

First broken rib was on the first day with my first board after two or three outings on foamie boards, forgot is was a lot harder. had two weeks of agony, and two or three trips to the docs, thankfully with my health insurance, and I now have a large grisly lump where the bone has healed. took lots of pain killers so I could surf after two weeks. Did a similar thing again two weeks ago when big wave slammed board into me after I panicked and bailed. Back to pain killers and strapping ribs up at night.

Had another really good session this morning, got waves stood up etc, although conditions were not great.

I'm really stoked that I got the number of replies to my post when I was feeling really sorry for myself, but I'm a little embarrassed that it's going on so long. It's gonna become a sticky at this rate, which is not what I wanted.

Thanks to all those that took the time to post. I hope I'm over the "Is it all worth it?" stage.

no offence dude, but if you aren't hooked instantly, maybe its not for you. as the old saying goes...

"if u surf don't stop"

or...

"if you don't surf, don't start"

happy days

eastcoaster wrote:no offence dude, but if you aren't hooked instantly, maybe its not for you. as the old saying goes...

"if u surf don't stop"

or...

"if you don't surf, don't start"

happy days

I'm gonna have to disagree with that...it's about perseverance. I get frustrated all the time, but then when i manage to take a drop and shoot down the line, it's feels amazing...

"If u surf don't stop"

or...

"if you don't surf,...sort your folkin' life out and start"

if youre having fun hey thats all that matters. when you first start out, to learn you always gotta go out there, sure, but 8 foot waves are a little rough for beginners. i live i live in florida, and our waves are usually smaller, but whenever we got waves over 7 ft, and i was startin out, waves that big were out of question. i think its great that your out there trying, but please take it easy if your a beginner. its good to get thrown around a bit, and you gotta get beat up to learn to ride bigger waves, but that soon idk. just be careful. even here in FL theres always a beginner going out in wild windy days when the waves are over 7 ft egtting thrashed around and end up drowning....just be careful. practice bigger waves on a 5 ft day and get thrown around a bit, getting bigger waves are well worth it, have fun and dont quit surfin if you love it,jsut dont go insane and charge 18-10 ft or antyhing over waves.