Surfing Waves

the ultimate ride

the adrenalin of riding a big wave

big turns and getting loads of spray

earning a living

is it spiritual

is it just another sport

what do you lot think cas i have no idea, it might be spiritual when you get a nice wave your just in a zone and nothing els matters, but that might just be me

I was talking to a person at college and the asked why a freeze my butt off for a afew seconds of riding.

I said because it was fun but i dont know why we really do it.

none of us know why, but something brings us all back for more

i think its like meditation...loads of people say...you may have loads of problems but once you're in the water you just forget about them and think about the next wave.
Thats what I find, im a stresser and worrier etc etc but I dont seem to get that when Im trying to surf. Just talking about it makes me forget all the other crap.

thats like me, you just get into a zone and dont realy think about anything, or if you do think about things for me it all becomes much easyer

Only thing that balances me out...

No real idea what surfing's 'about'. The question has a similar nature to "what's the deal with lungs?". I surf because it's a great way to get exercise in the sun and is just about the most fun you can have by yourself.

The whole it relaxes the hell out of me is just a bennifit. I can honestly say I enjoy it all the time(well except for when you fall into rocks and crap)

I think Kitey nailed it. I do a lot of other sports Moto Cross, Skiing, Jet Skiing, Mountain biking, sky diving ect. None of them relax me. I live a very stressful live, with many who count on me for the well being. I call surfing sessions Salt Water Therepy. I never have conversations in the water about the tough things I deal with. It is all about how good life is. I love the rush of riding the perfect wave, but when all is said and done it gets to the spiritual side for me.

Great thread.

Old Guys Rule wrote:...Great thread.

cheers, it just came to me when i was surfing the other day and i thought id put it on here, see what people say

Its pure passion! its the only thing that holds me up while Im 450km far from the sea, just the reamains from my last waves,i havent found anything similar.

to me it's more of spiritual..everytime i go out, i think of God's creation..and also, i think about a cold bottle of beer

keeps me sane

More spiritual than anything. I could care less about cut backs, and airs. Its all about the glide for me. Plus I just love the ocean. I've paddled my 10 footer out many days when the ocean was flat as a lake, just to be out.

Surfing gets me in trouble with me wife a lot thou. I completely loose track of time when I'm in the water.

Since I work in the borders of scotland its all about

FREEEEEEDOOOOM

Guess its the spiritual side, all thoughts wash away when in the sea. I love the smell, the sounds everything.

Also I get really competitive, so it really gets rid of all that energy.

Sar wrote:i think its like meditation...loads of people say...you may have loads of problems but once you're in the water you just forget about them and think about the next wave.
Thats what I find, im a stresser and worrier etc etc but I dont seem to get that when Im trying to surf. Just talking about it makes me forget all the other crap.

Spot on!

Its about the adrenalin and the stoke, the rush you get when you kick out of a wave.

Its also about nature and been in touch with it and being able to appreciate the power and beauty of it.

The sea is a place you can enjoy with your friends and have a real good time, but its a place you can go out solo and find some peace and solitude that can transport you to another place.

I think it's about being at one with nature, being reminded of how amazing it is to be alive, feeling part of the universe, having fun, forgetting your troubles, relaxing and enjoying the moment. It cheers me up, relieves me of any stress, makes me feel really good and it's a great way of keeping fit!

once i was surfing and it was 2-4ft and messy no other surfers just bodyboarders on the inside, the winds were strong and it was hard work, but then it all stopped no wind and then it chucked it down, i couldnt see the beach, it was amazing, i felt so alone yet so alive, it was like this for about a minuet then it stopped raining and the wind picked up again, but that minuet was amazing