First Surfing Experience
Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 2:37 amOK I bought my first board 2 days ago, it was used 6'8" 18 7/8" 2 7/8" good condition used custom shortboard for $165, which I thought was a great deal. Im 5'8 tall around 155lbs, so I guess the board was decent enough size to learn on. So today I went for my first ever surf session, the conditions wasn't that good for learning I thought,i t was low tide and waves were 2-4ft high. I went and paddle and to my surprise I was doing pretty good, I was moving forward and not falling off the board, couldn't duck dive though, ill work on that next time. So I got passed the breaking point and just laying there waiting for the right wave. I surprised myself again because I could actually stand on the board atleast 1 out of 3 tries, the problem is my timing. Its either I would stand and just sink and go nowhere and I think when i pop up Im might be standing really close to the nose since I keep on sinking or I would try to pop up late and get tumbled and dry by the wave. I almost broke my neck a couple of times too, since it was low tide it breaks on really shallow water, it was scary. I couldn't practice in the whitewash either because the water was too shallow and my fins might hit the sand and I probably wont go anywhere either. Maybe I should check surfline for conditions next time before I go. Overall, it was a pretty good experice, I know what to expect the second time around and work on getting better. My arms are kinda sore, Its a good workout though. I wish I have surfer friends to paddle with, it would make learning twice as fun. So untill next time...
