Surfing Waves

as most know, i live in hawaii which is one of the best places for surf. but its been flat and boring here for some time now, with only a few fleeting swells. i used to go surfing once or twice a week, but since maybe june, ive only been out maybe 7 times. i cant go out when its flat, there are better things to do than fight the crowds for knee to waist mush, and risk mashing up my board on reef. also, the north shore head high sweels are not woth the drive of the time.

there are more important or fun things like art, drugs, movies, school, monies and women to spend my hours on.

is it that i just dont like surfing that much or is my attitude about right? are you the same?

do you think it has something to do with skill level? i mean, when i was a beginner and rode a longer board, small waves didnt bother me so much. now im just bored and sick of it.

Ill go in anyday, big, small, raining, cold, windy etc I feel like im withdrawing if i dont go in Bu i do sorta undertsand where you coming from, I wont use my bodyboard unless its at least 6-10 ft 10ft+ prefered. But ill take my surfboard into anything within reason of course

i'll go in anything, like today it was only 1' face sometimes 2'. got my sisters longboard and had alot of fun. my attitude is very different when it's small, like to do stupid stuff, last week i was trying to hang ten on my 6'2", didn't work too well, but had so much fun doing stupid stuff like that.

i go whenver i can, i am also a begginer but its always fun, always something to learn better, duckdives and much much more.
Its always fun to try stupid stuff, ca anyone pogo stick on their surfboard???? as in put the board vertical and bouce. I cant do it!!

Shoulder + only. If it's small I can't really see the point in paddling out unless I'm with mates who like to crack jokes. But anything big is ok.

I think you should hit the North Shore for a week. It's only like an hour (not even) drive.

thats how i feel. i suppose i should go up tomorrow.

the problem is, im poor and i cant affford gas, i dont have surfer friends because i think its lame surfing with other people (and im just a loner in general) and sometimes i go up and i dont even enjoy it, and get really frustrated because of the gas, and it feeds my anxiety. when i have women in my life i have anxiety, and when i dont im lonely. surfing is an outlet but when it feeds to the anxiety of life, its not worth it.

i need another outlet. i have art, drugs and surf, anyone know any others? besides jogging and stuff, its too hot.

hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:thats how i feel. i suppose i should go up tomorrow.

the problem is, im poor and i cant affford gas, i dont have surfer friends because i think its lame surfing with other people (and im just a loner in general) and sometimes i go up and i dont even enjoy it, and get really frustrated because of the gas, and it feeds my anxiety. when i have women in my life i have anxiety, and when i dont im lonely. surfing is an outlet but when it feeds to the anxiety of life, its not worth it.

i need another outlet. i have art, drugs and surf, anyone know any others? besides jogging and stuff, its too hot.

Your on track with the drugs, but I wood suggest you start drinking heavily, and play with sharp objects. Fire can be a good time also.

Your on track with the drugs, but I wood suggest you start drinking heavily, and play with sharp objects. Fire can be a good time also.

..now theres some fine words of encouragment .. just a pointer : always check your on the outside of whatever is burning

I prefer it head high, but sometimes you just gotta get in on smaller stuff, depends how deaperate you are. Took my nine year old son out in 2-3ft surf a few weeks ago, i was just arsing around trying to pop some airs, trouble was i was landing with the board on top of me most of the time.

id sell all your surfboards and take up golf

CheeZee wrote: always check your on the outside of whatever is burning

LOL! sounds like you're speaking from experience, Cheeze!

Gambling theres always gambleing to really hit a trough.

Its got to be Bingo, its sooo exciting

Speaking of fire, I just put loads of firecrakcers together in a soda can filled with petrol....Wasn't really a good idea..but it seemed good at the time.

I now have a large browny/black area on the grass...and 4 really pissed off neighbours

LOL!

i used to love blowing xxxxx up before they made them illegal and drove the price up. i heard prostitutes are good as well. not really my bag of tea though

How about beach volleyball? Good exercise/little to no cost/little injury risk compared to other sports. What is the VB scene like in Hawaii? I'd assume there has to be a hot-spot somewhere. Just an idea to throw out, considering your situation and it sounds like you need an additional hobby besides surfing alone to pass the time. You can surf on the great/classic days and play VB on any non-rainy day when surf might not be up to your standards

Dec wrote:Speaking of fire, I just put loads of firecrakcers together in a soda can filled with petrol....Wasn't really a good idea..but it seemed good at the time.

I now have a large browny/black area on the grass...and 4 really pissed off neighbours

FINALLY I've found something to do this weekend.

Anyone ever thrown a brick of firecrackers soaked in gas into a bonfire?

Oh yeah, just go hike, I know ya'll got sweet places there. Spend more time outside, and it will be worth it.

Or it is for me.

isnt it weird. most of us would kill our familys ( maybe thats just me )to live and surf in hawaii, but human nature always seems to f::k it up . my advise; if its not working for you, leave it alone for awhile. it needent be for ever, just till you can find some fun in it again. I guess this is the trouble with being really good at something. Go out ,find some friends , have some fun.