Surfing Waves

It was my first session where the waves were overhead and some people were getting barreled. My friends and I paddled out never know ing it was this big and I was pretty scared at first. I was wondering how do you paddle for those huge waves since when I look down the line the drop seems so far down. Anyway later in the day we just dealt with those huge waves and caught some medium sized ones.

i had the same problem as you yesterday, it was really scary. IT was wierd because the waves would look like they would break way before you but they would break way after you. I guess you just have to take em late and paddle fast!

The same thing happened to me last week. i would end up popping up to late on a wave and have it close out then get slammed by the rest of the set

Any tips on how to not nose dive on those huge waves? I went for a pretty big wave and once I popped-up my nose went under and completly ate it on the wave.

try a a little more angle on take off. If you are too straight then force and speed is gonna send the nose right in.

Yea. Don't head straight down the face of the wave, head towards the opening at the left or right.

agreed. angle down the wave then do your bottom turn once you reach the bottom, pull back into the pocket, try to get barrelled. or pump down the line and throw a cutback! just have fun!! think of it this way...take some risks, your not going to die...its really not that big!

take some risks, your not going to die...its really not that big!

even 2ft surf on a reef can be a danger but i know what you mean.

lol, as long as you dont dive head first you will be fine...plus if your surfing overhead surf for the first time, im pretty sure you wouldnt go out at a sucky reef break

There's no special trick to it or anything, you just need to get out there and get stuck in and practice and have fun . The waves that start off being scarey soon become the ones you look for and hope for.

bottle, thats the key Its always scary surfing bigger than youre used to but thats the thrill of it, soon youll looking forward to those big days when you can get your adrenaline going. I still get worried when its big and nasty looking, but more out of fear of board snappage than personal safety.

GowerCharger wrote:bottle, thats the key Its always scary surfing bigger than youre used to but thats the thrill of it, soon youll looking forward to those big days when you can get your adrenaline going. I still get worried when its big and nasty looking, but more out of fear of board snappage than personal safety.

Yeah when i think about it I should have paddled for those real big ones . I have a question how do you get into the pocket for the barrel since a guy messed up in there on that day and the lip hit his shoulder and he ate it.

Getting barreled is tough. You need to get the right wave, and when it looks like it is going to throw ride about half way up the wave and crouch up. As soon as you have the barrel going over you, press down hard on the board so you get a good pump in..Now just run it straight out of the shoulder.