Surfing Waves

Its been one of those weeks where i have been absolutely battered by the surf. Now the tide has not been kind and i always seem to be going out on an outgoing tide/negative tide. The surf has picked up of recent its expecting to get upwards of 8-12ft+ (face) on sunday and its gonna hold for a while. Now i got pummeled on saturday (today) from super fast closeouts. Is there some sort of trick to taking off when i wave is closing out fast I mean i get into the wave but only to ride it for about 3 seconds and have a mountain close out on me and wipe me out something rotten. I thought it was just me bt i asked a round and observed a little and loads of people were getting tossed dragged and mullered by these fast closeouts, ugh.

Anyways if anyone has some good pointers id love to know.

Thanks.

If its 8 to 12 foot, and closing out, I'm pretty sure I'd keep my ass on the beach.

Taking off really early, at an angle and riding high on the wave. If you take too long to pull a bottom turn, then you will see a steep wall and you wont have enough speed or time to run it out.

Basically if you catch it early and make a quick bottom turn you will get out pretty quick.

Pump pump and pump!

PapaWoolacombe wrote:Pump pump and pump!

Pub pub and pub!

I thought that was another of our fourm members

Yah dude the waves are gettin crazy this weekend. I went out yesterday round 6 PM and there were some waves toppin out at like 10 feet+(face). but anyway if you see the wave closin out on both sides , dont even bother takin it. Cause the rides gonna be short, and the chance of eatin it is much higher. wait for a better one to roll in.

i hope the conditions get better, cause these waves are sick, but their form is lackin, to maybe closeouts! agggggh!!!!!!!!

i know what you mean i went down at around 10am today and it was banging but the closeouts were rotten after about 1 hour of getting thrashed i headed reef side and the waves held a little better there. Mind you its got a lot to do with these tides whih are getting on my nerves.

Looks like monday/tuesday should be a better and the tide a little better for us 10amers

well i went out today the surf was pretty darn big and yep there were some freak monsters that wiped the line up - a pretty small lineup was a little rough. I managed a few waves before that darn low tide back wash started and this strong onshore wind blew the surf out and made for unridable closeouts. Had fun any way. Hope you local san diegans enjoyed the surf out.

Not every wave is makeable and even Slater can't make a wave not closeout if its gonna closeout. But if its just breaking fast then go for it but know your limits and get used to taking the odd beating .

isaluteyou wrote:Is there some sort of trick to taking off when i wave is closing out fast

yes, pull out and wait for a better one, dont even paddle for closeouts. Wave selection is a skill which like almost everthing in surfing comes with experience, and quite a painful experience sometimes when it comes to shallow closeouts.

PapaWoolacombe wrote:I thought that was another of our fourm members

kiss my ass bad boy

Your not drunk again are you