Surfing Waves

My local break was going off today, overhead (i'd say 6ft) super clean and barreling .

Suicidally late drops are baaaaad, i went straight over the falls into the reef head first; and smacked my head on the bottom something in my neck went crack and its been sore ever since

its gonna be BIGGER tomorrow

oh wow! be careful out there!

Aye North WEales has been cracking the last week. And its not stopping. Hitting a new break today hopfully it'll be working!

Yesterday was just 2 heavy!!!!!! Went to the wrong beach and just spent 3hrs getting worked.
The set waves were breaking huge proberbly twice as far out which meant catching 2 waves then getting pummeld by 4 or 5 then recover catch another 2.
Absolutley no chance of duckdiving so had to bail the board and dive deep thank god their was only 5 of us out!

think my plans to get straight back out may be slighlty scuppered. I feel like Ive been run over by a truck this morning, i think yesterday may have been a bit TOO heavy

must be arriving here later, i sufed rest bay yesterday and it was prett y crappy, head high but super lumpy.
Then i went back to old faithful gennith today and it was nicely overhead and cleaner than kim and aggies kitchen work surfaces.
Made a bad decision in going for a big backside air on the biggest wave i got then remebering half way through that i cant do them, i must have got at least 8ft above the lip with my knees tucked up while my board decided to go for a floater and dissappeard into the wave, split second of freefall then flat onto the water face first, didnt hurt much but my head was ringing for the rest of the session.