surfing books - any recommendations

hey all
i was just wondering what surfing books you recommend.
i'm not talking about how-to's or technique, but i mean more of the spiritual and abstract side of surfing.
i just ordered West of Jesus. i'm looking forward to reading it
i was just wondering what surfing books you recommend.
i'm not talking about how-to's or technique, but i mean more of the spiritual and abstract side of surfing.
i just ordered West of Jesus. i'm looking forward to reading it