my best surf story

[SINGLEFIN74]

its totally flat here around bournemouth as usual and i'm bored so here is a recount of a most memorable session that took place in perth w.a.
i'd been living in scarborough virtually on the beach in an apartment with a shaper friend for nearly a year. Someone had left a very old waterlogged and yellow old school single fin which we dug out of the skip next to the place. this thing was about 6'10 with a pin tail. the widest part of the board was under your shoulders. it was prob early 70's. people used to throw it down on the concrete and jump on it to try and break it , at virtually every party we held,but she held together. my shaper mate (joel) decided one day to seal it up and take it surfing. well, he came back not too impressed. those of you who have surfed perth will know its fickle. sort of an ozzy bournemouth relatively. a month or so later , i had an old mate fly in from uk , and to cut a long story shorter, we grabbed a body board for him and i thought sod it.... i'l take the old girl out for a play. well, we got down the beach and there were a bout 4 or 5 good guys sat on this sand bank out from a storm drain.they were taking it in turns and getting good rides. it was a safe bet that they were better than me. it looked like a head high wave that was hitting this bank and going pretty hollow. it looked bloody alright for perth. we paddled out and immediately the board felt unstable, with the thin tail it just rolled from side to side real easy. i paddled for a couple but no luck.
my uk mate (andy) caught some white water on bodyboard and was pushed in to shore. with me out back , i just wanted to catch a wave to show him my surfing had come on since leaving the uk.
well , this lump appeared out back..
i was in position and as it reached the sandbank, it started to grow. it was one of those "wave of the day" ones, and i was in position. the good guys were paddling out and i just sat back on the board and turned to start paddling. it was going right which is backside for me, so i naturally have to drop in pig dogging.
as the wave hit the bank ,it doubled up , prob head and a half and hollow.
i paddled super hard and felt the speed pick up. i jumped up grabbing the outside rail and right arm trailing in wave face just hanging on. all the guys paddling out were watching and andy too. the wave just then ledged up and i managed to get to the bottom and not get thrown over and out.
the hoots went up ... beaming beaming smile...
and i made it off the back.
the guys paddled over and said they didn't know how i made that section.
i said neither did i. the board came alive as soon as it got the right wave under it.
i was super super stoked . my mate andy said "*%ckin hell charman" with a big smile too.
i turned the board over in the water and heres the thing.......
that wave had completely de laminated the whole bottom of the board. nose to tail , the water had got in and ripped the whole bottom off, wrecking the board completely on one of the most memorable waves i ever had.....that wave was the death of that board, but it had held together long enough, for one last time. was it board fate????
just fantastic anyway.
my best memories all contain surfing

[bluesnowcone]

so u a bournmouth local?

[SINGLEFIN74]

well
been out of country for a few years but k bay was local

[surferdude_scarborough]

cool story man! welcome to the forum too!

[bluesnowcone]

well
been out of country for a few years but k bay was local

makes no sense, n if u mean k bay as in the uk surf spot i understand that part

[SINGLEFIN74]

thanks surferdude
i hoped someone'd like it
and blue snow - i meant i'm not really a local now as i haven't surfed the place for 4 years but i was always down kimmeridge before that.

[bluesnowcone]

right, so u wer a local im with u

[SINGLEFIN74]

yeah. sorry mate
glad we got there

[Dec]

hmm..Sounds like a modified story of "SingleFin: Yellow" (the surf movie).

[FishKid Wales]

Who cares if the story is real or fake it kept me amused for a while.

Good wok and welcome to the forum

[bluesnowcone]

yh, i bet ppl say tings dat aint realy all da time, but there funi/ amusing

[FishKid Wales]

Blue this is a internet forum! I imagine well over 1/2 of all posts are total bollox.

[bluesnowcone]

yh, and probably a 5th of the people signd up dont surf

[SINGLEFIN74]

it's def not a bull story
its %100 true

[bluesnowcone]

i wasnt saying its not, but yh sounds wikid, wish i has some waves like that round here at the monent

[JP1]

Right On Single.

Good story.

Isnt it amazing how good some of the old equipment works.

I really enjoy taking out my Ten O on days that are better surfed with a tater chip. It is a challenge to try and make equipment work outside of its elements, but when it works it is nothing shy of perfection.

Hurricane Katrina last year brought some unreal surf to the upper Texas coast. Against all logic I took the big Yellow Dime out and finally made it out after a good 20-30 minute paddle out. I waited on the outside for about an hour just waiting for the perfect swell. Once I saw it I knew it was the one. Rode that wave for atlest 300 yards, rode her all the way to the beach. Sat on the shore for about 2 minutes and decided to just pack up the board and call it a day. It was just to good of a wave to try and duplicate.

Good story about enjoying the soul of surfing.

Thanks brother