Surfing Waves

So who's been blessed by being shacked?

Today, was my fist green room experience...I kinda stuffed it though, because when I realised what was happening im like AHHHH and sort of panicked, I'd been waiting for this day for a long time ...anyway, I pulled into a sucky 5-6 foot left hander and it just threw over me...scared the livin daylights out of me, when I realised what was happening! I then proceeded down the line and just pulled out (probably too early, cus i probably could have made it) fearing it was going to close out on me (by just turning into the wave, thus through it)...very surreal experience....especially cus my eyes were open and I could see everything!!

So, anyone down at Manly today, see a kook stuff up a perfectly good wave, that was me lol

ok change that... YOU are officially my surfing hero of all time!

Awesome you!!

BIG THUMBS UP!

Awesome man must have been great. I swear once when I was 13(18 now) I got something like it because I was small and kneeling down but nothing close to that. You better get way more for me!, since i only go once and a while but nobody is gona stop me from moving close to the beach soon.

dude the same sort of thing happend to me 2 years ago, it was about 6-10 and i just dropped down a steep face i thought i wouldnt make, and right away it just formed around me, i didnt even see it coming. that lasted for maybe 5 seconds im not sure, and i didnt make it out. i havent gotten barelled since.

hopefully you dont have my luck

Nice work fella


Stay in the shade

Way to share the stoke.

Enjoy it all.. each time is different.

man i wish i had barels down here wrll at the easy acsess spots atleast

stoked for ya man!! congratulations!!

congrats! very nice.

*greeeen* with envy......my first barrel is still years away

Fortunately my first barrel is not so far away! Infact it's at the end of my bed, a nice barrel of the mighty Hobgoblin ale!
Nice one brian.

KS

I often get little cover ups but only ever had 1 great big gaping keg and that was at Hossegor, so I know how rare a proper barrel is so nice one bro .

aaah, what you have missed!!!

Its a great feeling when the shade covers you, hollow crashing sound all around and the pull out!!

(Unfortunately that doesn't often happen for me..usualy pigdog barrel that closes out..d'oh!)

IS any1 watchin the ASP this year cus i was watchin it and Kelly Slater was surfin these sucky waves beside a peir for a laugh and just kept pullin into barrels that unless no one else new was even there
It was awesome.

Dec wrote:aaah, what you have missed!!!

Its a great feeling when the shade covers you, hollow crashing sound all around and the pull out!!

(Unfortunately that doesn't often happen for me..usualy pigdog barrel that closes out..d'oh!)

Same, same!!

It's either not getting deep enough to call it a barrel and pulling out.........or too deep it closes out!

But it's the best feeling

Good on yer Brian

That usually ends up in being rolled around and the board smacking me a few times, a headache, and lots of people laughing.

Pat...are you in Bali now? I might be coming over in 3 weeks.

Hey........I'll be there in 3 weeks!!

That'll be great if you're there as well

What's the deal??

This is the only type barrel I've got.

Its truely yummy eh Brian!

pat42 wrote:Hey........I'll be there in 3 weeks!!

That'll be great if you're there as well

What's the deal??

Well, one of my friends has recently bought a new house somewhere in bali (please, oh please say its not in Kuta) and if I can scrounge some money for flights he will give me a place to stay.

I would probably only be there for like 2 weeks anyway.

Might see you there