Surfing Waves

im just curious as to how often this happens. how often do you guys see other people carrying broken boards ot see a half of a board catching a ride in with no human..???

i see it almost half the time i go out there in the fall or whenever the bigger waves happen. would you consider waves powerful enough to do that big, and how mugh pressure does it take to break a board...?

Hell ya I would consider waves powerful enough to break a board and maybe a person . I'm not really sure how much pressure it would take but I guess going over the falls or something like that lol.

its to do with how he board hits the wave the angle etc etc. saw a guy walk out the surf just yesterday with a broken fun board about 8f and pretty thick but it was snapped clean in two close to the centre. I can only imagine there was a weak spot there because the waves were not exactly huge. Seen a few guys with bust boards mainly from attempting to shoot the pier (lucky they didnt break themselves.

I have even seen someone with a bust bodyboard it was a good quality one too those things are seemingly industructable because they got some good flex to them. I imagine it got sucked into an air pocket and got blasted as that air pocket vacuumed.

This Last December I went down to Black's Beach, San Diego, to watch the 20-25 foot waves. During the time I was there I saw about 5 different guys come out with broken boards.

Check out some footage of it....

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_pla ... 791&mv=loc

It gets that big for about 2 weeks every winter.

I was wondering some similiar things about broken boards. Does it usually happen when a board hits sand or reef really hard snapping it, or is it usually a powerful wave or the surfer falling hard onto the board at a pressure point.

my friend snapped his board just by ditching it and the wave landing on it just right.

That was the sweetest video it even had a dolphin ripping through the waves!

1 cubic metre of water = 1 metric ton

now imagine the lip landing in the middle of your board accelareated by gravity from however high the wave is.

thats gonna cut a board in half no problem.

Oh yeah!

1km3 falling at 30 km/h is gonna have 30,000 kg/ms momentum.

Nawsty stuff.

The saving grace being that water flows around things... That'll soften it up just a little. But the toughest board is still gonna snap if it gets hit wrong by that kind of thing.

-doug

I've seen a few people just wipe out wrong.......I guess there really isn't a right way to wipe out, but there for sure is a wrong way. Sometimes its not the wave hitting the board, or the board hitting the reef or sand bar.

Sometimes it just you hitting the board just right.

that video was pretty sweet.thank god i wasnt there, i might have been stupid enough to go out.

not that those guys are, just that im not nearly that good.

speaking of wave pressure and wiping out.....this one time I tried to pull under the lip of a wave but was out a little too far. The whole thing fell right on my back. The bad thing was that my feet never moved so it was like my knees had to absorb the whole load of the wave. I didnt even really fall, just took the whole thing on my back. I was really worried I tore a ligament but luckily not.

You can snap a board by trying to cutback it too hard against the wave and hit a air pocket in the whitewash, too.

No you can't, well not a normal board anyway !

You can snap a board by trying to cutback it too hard against the wave and hit a air pocket in the whitewash, too.

Try this little experiment; put your board resting on two posts/cinderblocks/chairs so it looks like a bench. Stand on it in the middle and jump up and down and see how long it takes to snap in two.

you know id really rather not try that

why not take a sledgehammer to your board while you are about it

bgdkmetzger2003 sweet vid man was that taken on big wednesday? I headed up to swamis that day and watched them at it. I hit the surf on the thursday it was pretty much closed out where i was in OB.

But i chatted to a couple of people that surfed big wednesday aparantly loads of broken boards accured particually from sneeker sets (which happens a lot at blacks on of the reasons im not too keen on that spot )

ps- I think i know the bodyboarder in the vid i assume its him beacuse he was at blacks and lives for big wave riding

Try this little experiment; put your board resting on two posts/cinderblocks/chairs so it looks like a bench. Stand on it in the middle and jump up and down and see how long it takes to snap in two.

How about no you moron.

That Vid was quality, them waves were huge

hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:how mugh pressure does it take to break a board...?

well you can punch a phberglass board and it will crack and dent, you could probably breack it if u hit it hard enuf on concrete/ jump on it