Surfing Waves

I was never meant to be a longboarder.

But, open to persuasion, Phil convinced me to have a go on his 9'2.

Phil, at least, had a very good time watching me wipe out and generally make an idiot of myself (I'll let him describe what it was like for him on my 6'6 )

So paddle paddle paddle.... I tried to catch a wave far too late (fish stylee) and went straight over the front in a pearl/falls combo... twice

Each time I faceplanted in a big way, and today I can barely move my neck from where it got snapped back as I hit the water. Ouchouchouch.

Think I'll stick to light, small boards

i find it weird how everytime a shortboarder has a go on a longboard they cant do it, people are always falling off when they use my longboard, i dont understand it

some of those perls were priceless i just wish i had the camara on me

i couldnt use your fish though, i found it imposible to ride it just felt like there was nothing beneath me, then you go to paddle and start wondering if your even moving

was all good fun though

lol... and i didnt see any of them ! .. was too busy showing lil'man how to catch a wave on his body board , all of which he pretended not to listen too .. then did what i'd said and caught a hell of a wave all the way in .. but still came back to me and told me " you still dont know nuffin " lol ..

I've just been to Boots....
"Drugs, drugs, give me your strongest fleshin' goddam drugs! Dont give me none of that, strong drugs, proper drugs, I want IV drugs, it hurts man!"

Sadly, you cant buy morphine from Boots without a prescription - hey thaya, have you got any morphine left? My neck really hurts

well i thought it would have been common sence not to try and take off on the tip of the board

no sympathy from me, no pain no gain, at least now you know where to pop up on it for next time

Common sense is a board where if you reach out and touch the nose, your feet are dragging in the water behind you!

How was I to know there was another 4ft of board behind me?

lmao, its a shame we didnt catch it all on camra

bluesnowcone2000 wrote:i find it weird how everytime a shortboarder has a go on a longboard they cant do it, people are always falling off when they use my longboard, i dont understand it

The timing is so different. You've got to plan things out in advance (start adn stop turns earlier, you've got to setup your next move in the middle of your last one). You've got to sit further out and paddle earlier. Trying to do shortboard things with a longboard will get you nowhere.

The main reason for shortboarders perling so much is that they are way too far forward - because they are used to having so little board in front of them. That's the biggest hurdle they usually have to face.

The second is, as noted, the planning and finessing required in longboarding. You have to know what you are going to do in advance and then initiate it somewhat ahead of time. My understanding is that an intermediate shortboarder should get this mostly figured out over a few sessions.

-doug

dougirwin13 wrote:The main reason for shortboarders perling so much is that they are way too far forward - because they are used to having so little board in front of them.

Yup, thats it

I figured it out fairly quickly, but not before getting beaten senseless a couple of times. Did phil mention it? Did he pipe up, "I say old boy, I really think you should move back a little". Did he heck. He just let me find out the hard way

it was to entertaining to tell you otherwise

dougirwin13 wrote:The main reason for shortboarders perling so much is that they are way too far forward - because they are used to having so little board in front of them. That's the biggest hurdle they usually have to face.

-doug

i find that is true, but when i went from a shortboard to a longboard i has no problems, the first ride i got was a bute, i recon it depends on the amount of balance a person has got. some beginers allways sit to far back and you can see it when they paddel, were as others get it al first time

bluesnowcone2000 wrote:

dougirwin13 wrote:The main reason for shortboarders perling so much is that they are way too far forward - because they are used to having so little board in front of them. That's the biggest hurdle they usually have to face.

-doug

i find that is true, but when i went from a shortboard to a longboard i has no problems, the first ride i got was a bute, i recon it depends on the amount of balance a person has got. some beginers allways sit to far back and you can see it when they paddel, were as others get it al first time

How good was your shortboading at the time?

um it was ok , i could ride down the line and i hade a fluke barrel once, the ocasional top turn, thats about it

i want to visit england. may i sleep on your floor?

WHAT? Eh? You want to go from Hawaii to England??

Wow..I must have bad eyesight because I swear that's what you wrote!?

hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:i want to visit england. may i sleep on your floor?

ill trade places with you

dougirwin13 wrote:The main reason for shortboarders perling so much is that they are way too far forward - -doug

And also because most longboards have insufficient nose rocker.

lets do it.


havent you read my screen name dec?

im not crazy. gilligan wasnt crazy either. being stuck on a small island your entire life gets too redundant.