Surfing Waves

Its seems like at least every odd month or so i end up making a comlete ass of myself. But nothing even comes close to my missap about 2 years ago.

I had just landed in san diego the day before and descided to check my new loacal patch out the surf wasnt big but the shape was nice. So i caught a few and started to get my rythm back etc. So im bobbing around waiting for a set and SUDDENLY i see this fin rise out of the water with this big shadowy mass heading straight for me ARGHHHHHHHH! i turn and start paddling like a maniac screaming SHARK SHARK i was in such a rush that i caught the first wave wiped out only to immmerge with people splitting the gts laughing at me. BLEEDING DOLPHINS how was i supposed to know it was my first day in san diego. Thank god it wasnt peak summer i would have never lived it down.

Can you top that one?

yup there are dolphins everwhere out here! They have no qualms coming pretty close to us surfers either. Almost daily now I see them jumping through the waves in packs usually in the mornings or near sundown along the coast of santa monica. Seals pop up in the waves occassionally near the pier but not as often as the dolphins.

To keep this post on topic I'll post something embarrassing that happened to me recently. I was kayaking in La Jolla two weeks ago with my girlfriend, her parents and a bunch of other random people. This chick comes over a wave sideways and slams her kayak right into my face. Knocked me backwards off the boat, lost my contact lens, ect. Nobody saw me get hit in the face by the kayak, just the aftermath as I tumbled into the water so the rest of the weekend my girlfriends parents gave me crap about not being able to properly use a kayak. Best part is there were about a dozen leopard sharks just swimming around right underneath us so everyone (even strangers) were laughing their butts off and telling me not to get eaten. fun times tho.

Two tales:

First
We are surfing with some friends down at Middleton Beach - well known beginners spot. Freinds are pretty new to surfing so we are encouraging them. It's a bit cold so the crowd factor is down, thank god. My mate is undergunned (at 7'0") for a beginner and feeling it. So I trade my 9'6" with him.

I'm nearly out the back and watching this black blob moving under water. watching.. Watching... It's darting around so I figure dolphin... But it doesn't move on or surface (which dolphins tend to do). I start to think "Uh-oh!" and paddle in. Calling to my mate "There's a shark out there Daz!". never in my life have I seen a beginner paddle a Mal so faster! :) hehe!

Get into shore and this Christian Surfer (hell of a nice bloke) is in stitches at us running away from a seal! hehehe!

Second
At Moana North with the same friends. Laughing at them for falling off and hurting themselves in shallow. About 15mins later I catch a nice peeler from out back and ride it in... Too far! Closeout! And guess who hits the bottom arse first? U-huh. That's right. I don't bruise easily. But this was one big mother of a bruise. Deep enough to bother my Sciatic nerve. Still get some trouble with it now.

Ahhh yes...

-doug

I (mildly) cracked a rib as I tried to prove that it is possible to surf a shortboard on a 6" (yes, inch) wave

I pumped and pumped, got further and further forward on the board 'til my foot went onto the unwaxed nose - SLIP - THUMP - CRACK - landed straight on my board

Errrrm.......ripped wetsuit, middle of winter, no board shorts on underneath, too cold to notice that things have popped out.

The last time I ever surfed without boardshorts.

Just after a came back from Morocco (aabout a month ago) i went to little fistral for a day in the water. I parked my car on the roadside by the public toilets. For those of you who know this place know that both sides of this road are normally jam packed. However, i managed to blag a space off someone who just pulled out.

Buzzing from the anticipation of getting in the water on those solid 2 foot waves i unstrapped my surfboard from the roof, opened the boot of my car and began unchanging as fast as i possible could. When it came to putting my boardies on i wrapped a towel around my waist, took off my boxers and then bent over to pick up my shorts. Unfortunately i did not put much thought into wrapping the towel around my waist because as i bent over the towel fell slid off leaving me stark naked!

Instinctively i quickly dropped to the ground and picked up my towel then wrapped it around me hoping that nobody had witnessed my exposure. To my dismay as i looked up, i saw that in the car behind me were 3 reasonabbly attractive ladies who saw the whole thing laughing their heads off. I can quite honestly say i've never been so embaressed in all of my life. But thats not all. Most people would just laugh it off and continue what they were doing. But not me! I was in a state of utter shock and i just stood there reflecting on what just happend. lol i must have looked like a right plonker.

2 years ago in a small surf shop in Croyde , Devon ... just proudly brought my first board and wetty .. walked out realised id left my shirt there which had a big fat doobie in the pocket ! .. walked back in cringing to find a frowning dude holding my shirt and holding my smoke aloft as to show all the other customers what a bad druggie i was ... snatched it out of his hand and ive never been back since !:twisted:!

haha cheezee. I'm a sucker for a story with a happy ending. Did you enjoy the spliff?

I've done a similar thing in my teenage years. I had a couple of spliffs worth of gold seal or squidgy black or something which i stashed in a pocket of my wallet until i decided i wanted to smoke it. The thing was though, i completely forgot about it being there until when i went to my local co op to buy all of my shopping for the week. When i went to pay for the shopping i pulled out my solo card (in those days it wasn't chip & pin it was swipe & sign) not realising that my hash was stuck to it. So when the lady at the checkout noticed it she picked it off and gave it me back while shaking her head in disgust. She then continued to take the payment and nothing more was said. She still works at my local co op and i still see her now.

lmao .. class .. " would you like 'Hash-back' with that "

ROFL

still lmao here bro

CheeZee wrote:lmao .. class .. " would you like 'Hash-back' with that "

yo man what kind of burn you got , ya know what stamp .. afghan , gold ... errr... issue no. 1 lmfao

"issue no.1" whats that?

its embossed on your card

I was surfing in Byron Bay after a heavy night out, and for probably only the second time ever I'd managed to get out back (usually I'm stuck in the whitewash!)

Me and my friend are sat waiting in between sets and I thought I was looking cool sitting up on my board, which I'd only just learned to do, when for absolutely no reason at all, the sea was like a millpond at that point, I fell off my board and bashed myself in the mouth with it, and emerged from the water covered in blood - don't know how I managed it, and in front of loads of people as well

Then about five minutes later my friend, who's very very short sighted, got tumbled and lost both her contact lenses at once so I had to guide her back to the beach when she couldn't see anything

We looked so cool!!!!

hard but it has to be the time i took a mate for the first time and on my second waves had a big wipe out and cut my lip and nose
but then the next day i had a sesson

My buddy and I surf all day about 8 hours. We are really exausted we finaly get back to the beach ready to go to a house we found to sleep in(being built,lucky we dint get caught) when my friend says"xxxxx man forgot where my keys were" 3 hours later we are dehydrated we have everyone on the beach looking for them people think we are stoned we are so tired and our eyes are red from the salt water. They leave we start to get sacred if we lost em we would be so fleshin'. I told my friend to check this one last place we finaly find them and we are so happy we hug each other infront of 3-4 attractive girls and 2 other people. We walk by them and we hear"stoners" we were pissed off but couldent do anything