Surfing Waves

the last two days I had a chance to surf Huntington Beach and Newport Beach. Huntington was interesting because at first the waves werent that big. Then I think we started to get some forerunners from the big south swell that was due on monday and tuesday (pacific coast). anyways, it was pretty walled and shallow. I dropped into a closeout and fell, and was surprised at the power (maybe because it was so shallow). Anyways, I got bounced off the bottom a couple times. Im sure others have shared this experience....care to share.

yeah happened to me once on a reef and there was blood every where but all bettewr now lol.
dave

Have only surfed there once, though it is my closest beach. Whenever I have an opportunity/time to get out there the waves are like that, too big for me, my mom is out there right now watching the waves, didn't even wait for me to get home from class.

yeah, most of the good waves here break over gnarly rocks so you gotta be careful about that. See quite a few guys surfing here with helmets on too so i guess theyve had that experience before.

Bouncing on the bottom isnt so bad unless its a reef or rock. I bounced on a boulder once, that wasnt so fun.

I'd rather bounce off the bottom than be held down by the presssure of the wave thinking your ears have exploded

I was out at HB on Tuesday. I was out for dusk patrol and yeah, it jacked up really quick. When were you out? High tide was 5:30pm so it was breaking pretty far outside. In fact on my first attempt, I paddled in from tower 18 and it took me 20 minutes or so to reach the outside. By then I'd drifted north about 500 yards to the Dog Beach/Cliffs. It was pretty heavy out there. Some of those waves were 8 ft. easily and pretty bumpy as well. Normally this place is filled with rippers, but it seemed noone wanted to be out there that day. When I was out even the reforms were around 3-4 ft and I caught plenty of those, since they were more surfable than the outside waves.

Mojo Jojo wrote:I was out at HB on Tuesday. I was out for dusk patrol and yeah, it jacked up really quick. When were you out? High tide was 5:30pm so it was breaking pretty far outside. In fact on my first attempt, I paddled in from tower 18 and it took me 20 minutes or so to reach the outside. By then I'd drifted north about 500 yards to the Dog Beach/Cliffs. It was pretty heavy out there. Some of those waves were 8 ft. easily and pretty bumpy as well. Normally this place is filled with rippers, but it seemed noone wanted to be out there that day. When I was out even the reforms were around 3-4 ft and I caught plenty of those, since they were more surfable than the outside waves.

yeah dude i was out about that same time on monday though. and i was out in front of tower 10 and drifted north very quickly. I think I was just getting some forerunners, nothing 8 feet on that day yet.

did you ever make it out to 56 street or the other jetties in newport. those were pretty fun too but crowded.

Welcome to a spongers world!!!!! bashing sand, reef, slab, boulders etc is a past time for us :)