Surfing Waves

I was down at Watergate in Cornwall on Sunday. THe waves were quite large, anyway I think I got caught in a lateral current which slipped into a rip current. I got knocked off my board, the leash ripped off my ankle when a wave dumped on my head, not sure what size, people would disagree but I am sure it was about 10". Anyway i ended up getting nailed by about 6 of these concurrently and just couldnt get out. The suck up of the wave and the rip held me there. Anyway I really thought I was gonna die, ive never experienced that, I had to call for help, luckily some kayaker saw me waving from a distance and managed to paddle of and pull me out. I'm quite embarrased by the whole situation but didnt have any choice, Im just wondering if anyone else has had similar really, I have a bit of a head f**k about it.

pedro1981 wrote:I am sure it was about 10".

I'm sure you didnt mean to write 10 inches

Yeah rips are scary alright, but experience will tell you where the rips are.
They do come in useful for getting out the back and if you remember youre not going to be dragged out for miles, you'll be alright.
Just go sideways away from the rip and dont waste energy paddling against it.......that's when problems begin

I got caught in one recently (for the first time) and it scared the s**t out of me! I was on the verge of screaming for help but thought no one would hear, and I didn't dare let go of my board to start waving my hands in the air like a lunatic. Luckily I made it back to shore, but it made me panic so much. I totally know what you mean! It was lucky someone was around to help you. Try paddling sideways (across) and you should get out of it. x

Yeah sorry I meant 10 foot. I just feel a bit shook up by it all. If it wasnt for the kayaker I would have drowned, its hard explaining it to non surfers becuase theres no physical damage to you. They dont get it.

Do things like that happen to the best of them? It wasnt just the rip, I could have got out of that it was the mixture of losing the board, getting sent under wave after wave as well as fighting against the pulls, swallowed a bit of water too.

I dont know if im being pathetic really. Just could do with a bit of re assurance that some of the best get nailed too and need help.

pedro1981 wrote: some of the best get nailed too .

Everyone gets nailed occasionally. But you do learn where the rips are, and where you should/shouldnt be paddling out.

It happens, its scary, learn from it

It is scarey for the first time , next time it happens you know what to do.

Keep at it and stay safe.

Cheers guys. Just needed to know really. Ive been going with my mate for years and nothing ever happens to him, we're the same level of surf as well.

But appreciate the comments.

Pete

exactly pat... and yer I am sure that there are a lot of people that will disagree with the 10 inches comment good eyes pat, I just brushed past expecting the normal over exageration that comes out of looking at any wave over 4 foot from the water line .

Paddle sideways or even out... a rip at the most only goes a couple of hundred meters, normally within 50m or did I meen 50mm I have no idea about the condition you generally surf in but over time you will find that rips can be very benificial.

i have been caught in a couple...first time i was 12 and actually soiled my westuit i was so scared!!! I went so far out a life boat had to get me.



(just to be clear on this....i didnt actually do it, although i was probably scared enough to)



actually thats a point...going off on a tangent and not a very nice one at that, but do people actually.... for want of a better phrase "follow through" if they are that scared?

best thing to do is to remain calm, whatever u do, dont panic, it'll just make it worse, and paddle out of the rip, sideways, not against it..if you lose your board, dont worry about it, you can always buy one..be safe out there

I love rips. When you get used to them they make for a nice, pleasant sruise out the back.

No work! Just paddle into the side and then back out of the rip.

Most rips only go a few 100 meters, too. At least so far ;)

-doug

the main thing is not to panic, once you realise your in a rip, dont try and paddle against the rip just paddle across it and back in. Most rips die off once your past the surf line anyway so you wont get dragged out into any shipping lanes or anything.

One day you will learn to love the rip.

grub wrote: a rip at the most only goes a couple of hundred meters, normally within 50m or did I meen 50mm

Didnt you mean 50 km???? That sounds more like it

That would give you something to soil your wetsuit about, Jennie

Cheers guys.

I can feel the sympathy. And the next time I almost drown in 10inches of water I wont bother you with my thoughts. Just so you guys know a 30 year guy died at watergate a year ago, a local surfer apparently who just got caught in the wrong place wrong time.

Mark Foo is another so dont think your invincible!! Cos your not.

I just read your post again.....I didnt realise you lost your board!!!
It's scary enough in a strong current with a board....but without one

I think the thing is, you shouldnt put yourself in waves that are out of your league!
I'm sure we've all done it at some time, but it renews your respect for mother nature and the power of the ocean

It was my own fault in a way. I had already got out because I was tired but couldnt see my mate, thats why I went back in to try and find him and thats when it all happened. Totally learnt a lesson.

well, we're not saying you shouldnt have been worried, but at least next time you'll know what your dealing with and wont be as scared.

I heard there was 8 swimmers pulled out by lifeguards at langland this weekend, mainly from being caught in rips (theres lots of nasty rips there, not a place for beginners or drunken swimmers), the danger is that instinct tells them to swim against the rip and they get tired or get cramp and then they're at real risk, even within a few yards from the shore.

http://www.ocregister.com/ocregister/news/local/article_1178961.php

Happens too often unfortunately. I was actualy at this break during the search. It was the last stop in my surf check looking for a break that wasn't blown out. I've surfed here many times. When I walked out, there were at least a hundred lifegaurds out with jet ski's, SUV's, boats, and heli's. I thought they were conducting training or try outs for the summer season. I didn't want to paddle out and have them call me in. I didn't learn of the drowning until I heard it on the evening news. Another article I found listed the people drowned at this same beach since 2001. There's been at least one victim per year, with one year claiming two. All of them were between 14 and 22. Strong young lads. Rips are very serious and the advise to stay calm is a good one although it's probably easier said than done when you are in a panic. Still, follow that advise as best as you can.[url][/url]

S**t.....that was only yesterday

pat42 wrote:S**t.....that was only yesterday

Yep, it happens more than I would like to hear about it. A while ago there was a guy kitesurfing who ended up out near one of the oil platforms off the coast. People get caught in them all the time, but the one's who survive are the ones who remain calm either just wait it out or paddle/swim parallel to the shore.