Surfing Waves

I guess this type of thing is old news to a lot of people on here but I just caught my first unbroken wave(s) and got up for the first time yesterday!!! The only thing I couldn't manage was to angle in with the waves instead of riding straight in to the shore. But whatever, it was the best and most awesomest thing I've ever done, I can't wait until my next session!

the day was perfect....the waves were about thigh high, and they rolled in nice and slow, with plenty of time between waves and PLENTY of time between sets....in other words, a perfect day for a beginner like me. And on a bigass longboard like I got lol.....I had such a great time surfing with the groms yesterday (and the groms here are so friendly!), I hope the rest of the summer is like this!

I am so stoked off of how awesome it was to stand and ride waves and how awesome the people (groms) in the water were about it, I can't wait to get out tomorrow!

Sorry if I'm wasting your time but I'm really really STOKED!!!

Say goodbye to the life you had before , and welcome to the surfers' life .

Ol'DZ,

I love reading posts like this...it's a great thing to hear, keeps me appreciating how good surfing is.

That's brilliant, sounds like you had a wicked time. Why where there so many groms in the water? I have a picture of you surfing amongst crowds of kids - where were all the adults?

Oh it brings back memories of that first bitchin ride, just brought a smile back to my face as well!
Well done mate, it's a great feeling isn't it?

kitesurfer- it was the best feeling I can think of in a long time, maybe the best ever

iomarti- I don't know where the "real" surfers were, but there were 3 groms out, and an older guy (old enough to be bald anyway) and a longboarder about my age. Oh and a genuine kook who was sitting on his board about a hundred feet outside of the lineup. That guy didn't catch anything lol.

And now today I got acqauinted with another part of being a surfer- how much it sucks when the ocean goes flat. It was flat today and is supposed to be flat tomorrow. Then I go back to work the day after that....needless to say, I cleaned all the wax off my board so it wouldn't melt all over my car sitting in there while I work all day (like a sucker hehe). Because when work's over I WILL be heading straight for the shore and praying for surf the whole way there...

wait till you get your first barrel.

don't talk about flat surf. It was flat here for a week, really really flat. And I was in a permanent bad mood, really ratty.

Now its good again, and I've got no free time to go in. Grrr.

And i've got free afternoons on thursday and friday, but the surf report says it will go back to being flat again by thursday.

I'm on such a short fuse now....!

Yay......I remember my first proper big wave. It was like having an orgasm.................only better

My whole body was tingling all over for ages afterwards!

For me, surfing is better than sex a drugs

ha ha maybe you just haven't done it with the right person...!

For me, surfing is better than sex a drugs

.... " steady on pat ...thats a hell of a statement to make right there ... maybe your combination has been all wrong try them seperate and for differing reasons before trying a whole combo lmao

(hehe you must have known your gonna get some for that line )

yeh cheezee of course he knew, he just wanted some offers....!

I remember my first proper big wave. It was like having an orgasm

... what ya mean your mum walked in with a tray of tea and biscuits and ran out screaming ? ...

but he said 'an orgasm', not 'my first orgasm' !

unless his mum sticks around for all of them...?

yeh cheezee of course he knew, he just wanted some offers....!

... lmao ... ahhh pyschology is a beautiful thing

I'm still a virgin

I dont even know what sex feels like..........But I reckon surfing's better


Cheezee.......... "what ya mean your mum walked in with a tray of tea and biscuits and ran out screaming ? "

I remember being caught in my bedroom witha porno mag when I was 12 ......... my mum took it off me, and my dad "borrowed" it

Whoa .. im stopping this before it even gets half way as far as it could lmao ..

and even that is now open for additional comments huh?!! lmao

iomarti wrote:ha ha maybe you just haven't done it with the right person...!

Or you havent caught the right waves

touche!

fair enough... i've only been surfing for 2n a half months. So can't wait for the 'better than orgasm' wave! I'll be lettin you know about it, and we can revive the conversation. Till then tho....

Oooooooohhhhh you lucky thing, you

You'll know the wave

Oh and by the way....I'm not really a virgin

I'm shocked