Im stoked!

I have not been able to surf because of an injury for ten years. I had surgery to repair my neck and got clearance to go out in the water. I bought a wetsuit a couple weeks ago but couldn't go out in the water because I got sick. Then my buddy breaks the board he was going to let me use a couple days after I got better. Bummer! But another buddy had a nine footer he let me borrow!!! I was going to go out today but it way too crowded for me to be out, so I'll wait for Monday morning. When I mean crowded, I mean there were more than a hundred people out in the water all strung along.