Surfing Waves

Just curious, as the pro's in surf movies dont seem to bother alot of the time. I tried it the other day and have to say it was alot easier than tripping over the leash all the time and having it wrap around my legs - although I was terrified of losing my board!

i've only ever tried surfing without a lease once, we were surfing at Rhosneiger (on windsurfing boards)... twas not very successful, spent the whole time nose diving then swimming after the boards which surfed a lot better without us on em!

yea i have, you feel like you are totally free and can do a lot more tricks, for some reason, even though its just a strap around your ankle. i have pulled some pretty nice moves without one, i usually do it if the waves are small. however, you always gotta remember if you fall try to grab your board at all costs. on numerous times i fell and it washed all the way to the beach even if its a tiny wave it will carry your board to shore. i had to swim all the way back to get it and out again. also theres the danger of hitting somone else when you fall.

i wouldnt do it, unless you're with friends and no one else is at the break on a small day. otherwise dont do it

I surf with a leesh on all the time. Its too dangerous to ignore, plus I couldnt imagine chasing after my board everytime I wipeout. The pros surf without leashes sometimes when surfing big waves because they dont want to be near their board when they wipeout as the impact of it swinging back at them could kill them.

I feel more "connected" when I have a leash. I don't mind pushing my self, because I always know that I can just jank on the cord that's on my leg, and the board will come back, instead of bailing after a messed up cutback or something, and the board stays on the wave and goes all the way to shore, and then you spend another 5 minutes chasing it and paddling back out

i cant imagine surfing without my leash on, it has saved my life a couple of times

Pro's often dont wear leashes... Pro's dont care about breaking boards... Pro's have a boat right near them... Real people wear leashes

Leashes are a pain, and they produce a surprising amount of drag in the water. The only way to deal with it is to use as short a leash as is reasonable, and if its still bugging you, to use a competiton leash - thinner and lighter, but more prone to breaking, but a good compromise in smaller surf

I read in a magazine bact in Feb that the French authorities are makeing leashes mandatory.

If the waves are mellow then I some times take it off as i think that fitness wise it makes you a better surfer, lots of extra swimming. But I only do it for max of 1/2 an hour.

From a begginner's point of view .. i always leash up ! or tho i take it off for lil'man when hes having a go cause my board is big enough to drag him along
I want him to fall off clear of the board and i do all the chasing !!

and someone touched on " they save lives " .. not only obviously from stopping your board from taking someone else out ..but how many times have i completely exhausted myself paddling from a rip and then tumbled off at some point ! ..if i didnt have that leash to yank-on then wheres my bouyancy aid gone ! .... " down you go " glug glug

i always where a leash when im longboarding unles im the onlyone in the water and its not to big, but when i rent out a 9' foam board i dont bother with a leash cas their so heavy it will drag you along if you bail.

yeah, my retro longboard is heavy, like 30 lbs...so it drags me a good bit. I've broken off multiple leash loops, and torn through velcro but I still think its better to get dragged, then my board going all the way to shore.

Anyways, the waves aren't very big when I use that board.

i went surfing a few times last year when it was small and clean with out my leesh and loved it the freedom of cross steping with out having the leesh straped to your leg was nice id only do it if there wasnt that many people about and it was a small day 1-2ft

damn ..there ya are bro' ..you've been a bit quiet of late .. working n stuff or hitting the waves plenty ?! .....

I havnt been down at all yet this year ..except for a couple of late night sulky drives to saunton to blow the jive out of my ears

cheezee, do you surf saunton at sunset quite alot, because everytime im down in the area i go for an evening surf. its alot better than in the day, not a long walk and alot less people.

yeh generally Blue' .. by the time i get outta of here and down to saunty its usually around sunset .. best time of day i reckon .. and peeps seem to be a bit more up for a chat etc as the sun goes down

Your in Bournmouth yeh?.. you drive over to saunton often ?..

wel im only 14 so i cant drive their, but when my dads got a free weekend we all pile in the camper with the boards and go their for a long weekend, im gunu try and get down their next weekend if theirs surf. so you live in the area then?

naa im in somerset but only a couple of hours drive for me .. i kinda stick to Saunton because i guess there is nothing else there to side track me from surfing ( i.e pubs !!) .. so i spend most my time there or just around the corner at Croyde

ahh ...good ol'pops ..at least your dad is up for driving you there ..hey and in about 100years when they actually get started on that false reef at Bournmouth, you'll have perfect waves on your doorstep everyday

CheeZee wrote:damn ..there ya are bro' :D ..you've been a bit quiet of late .. working n stuff or hitting the waves plenty ?! .....

I havnt been down at all yet this year ..except for a couple of late night sulky drives to saunton to blow the jive out of my ears :roll:

i wish mate, sadly im totaly broke and have finals this month so ive not been doing much other than studying, did get in a few weeks ago to 2-4 ft messy saunton, ah well 2 more weeks then im free for the summer

you want a much longer leash in big waves, thats why it often looks like people dont have one on when they bail in videos and the board keeps going for a long way, although some dont use one i would never recommend it, aside from the danger of loose boards, if you do get into trouble youll find having a floaty thing tied to you will come in very handy.
and if you get drilled really deep by a huge set you can use the leash to pull yourself back up to the surface

did you watch Riding Giants? Some guys say their leash have saved their lives, some guys say they have almost killed them....

I guess its all personal experience