Surfing Waves

After reading a lot of posts on here im really starting to get confused....

Every second post someone seems to be scoring epic sessions, perfect barrelling tubes riden by people who have been surfing three times and are really quick learners, 7,8,9,10ft waves everywhere, on the beachies, on the points and I suspect even in the in the bathtub.

Is it only me or does anyone else get the feeling that people perception of the actual size of the surf they are playing in is somewhat askew?

I nearly always take the size of the wave people say they rode and divide by two! Well at least here in the uk, but i keep quiet and let them enjoy their 10ft wave!

Yes, good call... My favourite size is around the 10ft swell or 4 to 6 foot face height. Most people wont really know how to size a wave and what’s more so many people have so many ideas on how it is measured.

I would bet that more than 90% of people on here haven't been in true double over head surf that will do you some damage if and when you muck up... the power of just over head is incredible let-a-lone that squared. I might be a bit soft but after a couple of broken boards, many snapped leashes and a couple that I had to be drag from; I generally stay clear of anything on the larger side and always have a laugh when guys get on here talking it up... keep it up I love a good laugh...

As chopper says: Don’t let the truth get in the way of a good story

"After I pulled out the tube, I did a quick backhand off the lip, then onto the flats and pulled a bottom turn back up the double overhead face and then pushed a crazy floater over the shoulder of a crumbling section, then the wave really jacked up...


...so, anyway, that was my first lesson. What board do you think I should get?"

grub wrote:I would bet that more than 90% of people on here haven't been in true double over head surf that will do you some damage ... a couple of broken boards, ...generally stay clear of anything on the larger side and always have a laugh ....

Yup, been there, been scared/beaten stupid, learnt some valuable lessons about the relative power of me versus the ocean.

And shhhhhh, Ive got a secret, dont tell anyone, but I think smaller waves are more fun

Thanks guys...glad to see im not alone....

Grub... if chop chop said it was 10+ and he was carving it up on his mums ironing board ....far be it from me to argue the toss.

By the way where in this great south land are you from?

farside wrote:... if chop chop said it was 10+ and he was carving it up on his mums ironing board ....far be it from me to argue the toss.

true true sir...

farside wrote:By the way where in this great south land are you from?

I lived and worked in Wollongong for the last 10 years before moving here... hmmm probably the most famous wave around there would be Sandon Point in about 5 minutes walk from my old job in Bulli... if you know the area, I would prefer easties or the farm on account of the crowd though...

drowningbitbybit wrote:"After I pulled out the tube, I did a quick backhand off the lip, then onto the flats and pulled a bottom turn back up the double overhead face and then pushed a crazy floater over the shoulder of a crumbling section, then the wave really jacked up...


...so, anyway, that was my first lesson. What board do you think I should get?"

damn! how much did u pay for your first lesson? can u sign me up? LOL

what a refreshin change..... 3-5ft waves are tops.any bigger an out comes the sponge.

The smaller the better. I'm a wimp and i'm proud.

As soon as somone talks "feet" my mind shuts down.

I'm more likely to believe "knee", "waist", "shouder", "overhead", "double overhead".

Oh yeah. And knowing the spot and how it works helps me figure out if they are bullshitting.

-doug

so i'm 6ft5" and someone else is 4ft 2" -how does that work?

Generally considered to be as a meausre against an average height male. Over here that's 6'. Exactly my height, so you can see why it works well for me :D

Good point tho, some people don't do "the conversion" for their height. But it works well in practice (you make the mental adjustment sort of instinctively).

In any case what's the real difference over a range from 5'6" to 6'6"? LOL! Tho the diff between 1 and 2 foot can be something :)\

-doug

Its a common mis-understanding that everyone expiriences when they start surfing. I think the biggest wave I have surfed is 4ft and to me thats big enough. Id prefer surfing small clean 2-3ft waves, anything above 4ft is scary when paddling out.
When I first started out I was fearless of the waves until I took a few wave beatings. You learn your lesson and know where you stand after that

Well you see boyan.

Thus it works. Technically according to the universal measurement system of Auztraylia...

You would be head high.. and your shorter friend would be waist high.

Your friend there would actually be head high too! To them that is. And to them you would be ...overhead. Now if your friend the 4'something... had a child.. and their child was say... about 3'1...a relative giant yes, but let's not get pedantic here.. then you would become double overhead... to them. The child that is.

Man I hate having to explain things to slow people!!!

LMFAO! :lol: :P

-doug

A wave is only as big as you make it.

bgdkmetzger2003 wrote:A wave is only as big as you make it.

lol, dunno bout you, but i dont generally make my own surf

largest i have surfed is probably 8-10 foot...it was damn scary...everyone was taking beatings, and the far banks, like the bombora were breaking at manly...quite an eye opening session.

some people think overhead is when they look up from a bottom turn to see the lip above them, bear in mind that they are crouched and leaning over you can see the wave "overhead" when its only 3ft. Me I always seem to underestimate rathen than overestimate.

The scale i work to is-
1ft- too small to surf
2ft- little bashable waves, not out of your depth when you pull off
3ft- decent size face to manouver on, have to pump to keep speed
4ft- feels bigger, easy to generate speed, when you wipe out you know about it
5ft- Big, scary if its stormy, nasty wipeouts start here
6ft- feels very big, adrenaline goes up, trying not to even think about wiping out
6ft+ - huge, most people here dont surf over 6ft even if they can get out, certainly no beginners.

I'm strictly an Imperial Ruler man when it comes to wave height

Come to think of it I also believe in Imperial Ruling as a sytem of government

Intereseting to see wave height measured by emotion. . . . reminds me of the stockmarket