Surfing Waves

Learning is fun yea.. but...

My first month was riddled with injuries. After I made friends with my physio (It's free here in NZ for sporting 'accidents' ... how much does that rule!) life got really awesome, more so, out there in the water.

Anyone else get fully wasted all the time?

My mate says "get hard" and "get used to it" Which is all good... But I'm somehow killing more out there yet not getting as munted all the time. Awesome a! ooooohh knockk on wood!!


What's you best injury so far?

a few thick lips where i havent paddled into the white water fast enough and the board has come up and smacked me in the face

I love whiping out, it's sick. When I was learning to surf back in the day I would absolutely love whiping out. I can remember wobbling on the board and just smacking my back on the board or water I loved it.

Now, I try the craziest xxxxx and push myself to the point where I almost try impossible things so I can crash hard. If you see a guy at your beach doing a backflip and landing head first on the board. Thats probably ME!.

orbital wrote:I love whiping out, it's sick. When I was learning to surf back in the day I would absolutely love whiping out. I can remember wobbling on the board and just smacking my back on the board or water I loved it.

Now, I try the craziest xxxxx and push myself to the point where I almost try impossible things so I can crash hard. If you see a guy at your beach doing a backflip and landing head first on the board. Thats probably ME!.

You get much surf in Canada?

Yeah man, we get some pretty sweet surf on the east coast. We are right on the Atlantic here.

I love falling off! Actually, thats not quite true- I love falling off after trimming for ages, and then only when sure my board aint going to hit anyone, I just flop in and start paddling back out.

Best injury? Apart from a muscle in my back which is fine now, once I got knocked out by my own board!

I fell off (no other surfers around) and surfaced, protecting my head as usual. Then, tired, I stopped to blow some snot outa my nose, taking my eyes off the waves for a few seconds. Then the next wave grabbed my board and smacked me in the jaw with it! I sparked out for a few seconds and when I came to my vision was at 45 degrees - I was seeing everything sideways! (Maybe I WAS sideways). My first instinct was "PLEASE DONT DROWN!" (no other surfers around!), but I was fine after that!

Valuable lesson about awareness was learned that day! Just wanted to share. Even when dog tired dont take your eyes off whats happening around you!

I dont

Got clocked in the head with longboard...14 stitches. Peeled the bottom off my big toe, should have got stitches....didn't. Cut chunks off the tips of two fingers, on loose fiberglass.

Pales in comparison to a bro who took the board tip in his ass cheek, missed the hole by inches, but created a hole of its own. Same guy caught a fin in his nose....it sliced him clean...he paddled up to me to ask if he was ok...i didn't see much till he smiled, his nostril was split and it spread wide when he smiled.....8 stitches.

spend an awful lot of time getting mangled out there and love it. haven't had any bad injuries yet... tend to be blessed as the luckiest guy on earth in that regard. many dangerous jobs many close calls and still tickin.
can't wait till i can post that i'm at least as good at surfing as i am at takin them on the head!

sutures from the fin.... that's the result of my best injury

Best injury? Broken rib in back.

Beachbumhippie wrote:I dont

VG. 10/10.

Wouldnt it be just great if we were all so perfect we never ever made any mistakes! Not even years ago when leaning to surf! Awesome!

Sadly some of us mortals fall a bit short

I dont like getting wiped out but i do get a rush from it

A cut in my forehead after a fin chop. It turned out to be pretty harmless (no stitches needed) but at the time I had blood coming down most of my face and I got a lot of worried looks from other surfers...