bah

Have a chat about any general surfing related topics.

bah

Postby mar1eylove » Mon Mar 20, 2006 9:56 pm

so yesterday i went with my girlfrined to get her a new board, and since ive been grounded from mine since i got it at xmas it was the first time i went out. so here it is, and were freezing (60 degrees water 63 degrees air) with no wetsuit tryin to surf in like 2 foot waves. yeah, well those waves werent carrying my ass anywhere.. every time i paddled to catch the wave i wouldnt move and if i did try to get up i ate the floor. i got up to my feet once and then the board stopped.. i rode like 5 inches then it sank. so.. yeah. im 0 for 1 when it comes to this whole surfing thing.. where do you find motivation when the going gets tough?

oh yeah, this was my FIRST TIME
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Postby surfinforlife » Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:52 am

Well personally at that temperature and with no wetsuit I think just about everyone would find it hard to get motivated. Beg, borrow or a steal (no im not condoning stealing) a wettie, get out there and dont come in until you catch that first wave! Once you know that feeling nothing will stop you and you wont lack any motivation for surfing again!!
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Postby farside » Tue Mar 21, 2006 12:46 pm

Where do you find motivation when the going gets tough?

It's different things to different people.

The phrase "only a surfer knows the feeling" really does sum it up.

For me its that feeling I get when it all just "clicks".... paddling into the perfect position, trimming just right....a quick, clean pop up and pulling onto a smooth green face....IT IS AWESOME.

Unfortunately, it doesnt always exactly work out that way and somedays I take a hammering... but trust me once you have taste you've got to get it again and again.
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Postby mar1eylove » Mon Mar 27, 2006 1:01 pm

session 2 went alot better . i borrowed a wettie from a freind and the locals were really cool.. i got up a few times and then went out again the next day. now im hooked.. its rediculous.
well thanks for the replys
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