Surfing Waves

Hi, i was wondering.. if you can help me

im doing a projekt at school about surfing.
I need to know what made you pick up surfing? And what keeps you going?

Is the surfing as glamourus as in the movies, where you see persons riding a tube.

thanks

i picked up surfing cuz i grew up on long island....not that it has huge waves or anything but my family did it so i started, you keep going...surfing in the cold and where ever you go cuz its what you do, its an feeling you get while doin it....ive never seen it be as glamerous as the movies...but then again ive never seen a "tube" on my coast

I went on holiday to Cornwall and saw surfing for the first time. Got hooked after two weeks of surfing in beautiful weather. Had a gap of a few years bnut was always keen to start again. Just had my first board as a present.

heaven wrote:Is the surfing as glamourus as in the movies, where you see persons riding a tube.

Does paddling around in freezing cold water count as glamourous? Followed by smelling of p*ss for the rest of the day, with red-eyes, and then that ocean-out-of-my-nose thing

The glamour thing - it's all a media lie

the media makes it look all glamourous, but really its nothing but hard work, time, cold water, expensive boards, expensive gas to get you there.....not many peoples thing



but its mine!

thank you for replying this fast

i would like more replyes about why you picked up surfing and why you keep going.

also if you have the time, i would like to know is the surfing culture so different from other cultures.

its not that we keep going dude, you make it seem like going to the dentist. its just what we do, its how we live.

our culture is mixed man, you got the hard core guys who can get out there every rideable day....and pretty much everyone else who gets out there when they can between work and family...and then the people who drive everywhere with a board on there car and go surfing once a year... but for the most part man were friendly, chill and tend to be a little spiritual...not like a hippy but i dono spiritual...at least thats how me and buds are.

its all about the buzz man

its not something to explain, but something to experience. you get out there on a warm summer swell, sun setting, gentle waves pushing you in. you just feel so in tune and relaxed. or thats what I get from it.

and that description seems so perfect and glamorous like the movies make it, but thats what every session feels like, even if its raining and 35 with a foot and a half chop instead of waves.

at least thats what it is to me, all for the buzz. some guys drink, smoke, whatever, I surf. a natural high, as cheezy as that may sound

why did my post get deleted? i posted on here didnt i? about the history of surfing class at the university?
did anyone see it?
im sure i did.

I think I know what you are talking about, different thread for a different school project.

Endless Summer (the first one) was the reason I started surfing in 1969. Also had few friends that surfed. I have been surfing now for 36 yrs. Glamourous maybe but more like stoked diffently, its the one thing in my life I enjoy every time I do it. I have never had a bad day of surf in 36 yrs. Because even one wave makes the day worth it.
I've had people tell over the years " don't you think its time to grow up and quit surfing" my answere to that is quite simply yes when I die. Even then my sons who also surf will carry on the family legacy. Tubes in my 36 yrs probably not more than a minute total time. But memories a life time, nothing like a good session with friends. I still surf every weekend, will be in the water in the morning Saturday 04 expecting 3-4 meter swell.
I am also a head judge for all of our surf comps. and trails.
Live to Surf
Surf to Live
Howlyboytt

i muct me losing my mind

nah, your not losing your mind, just very similar threads.

it was the guy that wanted to do this history of surfing.

Thank you all of you

you been a great help and i think im getting the hang of the surfing feeling

especially thanks to howlyboytt...

Its my pleasure. Surfing has given me a very fulfilling 36 yrs. I find even to this day when I am stressed out need to relax I take a surf. What has made it even more enjoyble is being able to surf with my sons and their freinds. We have a wide range of good breaks on the island and many of times we have surfed spots that had no-one there. Theres an real enjoyable feeling watching the faces of my children when they get that great wave and at the end hearing that hoot that all surfers know to mean I am totally stoked. This past November I went to Barbados for the Reef Pro Event (to judge) there was this young girl named Chelsie 10 yrs old who entered the womens event just listening to her talk you know she eats, breaths and sleeps surfing. to her its a pure joy, the same feeling I have felt these last 36yrs.
Surfing is way of life. It will put a smile on the saddest of faces.
Live to Surf
Surf to Live
ps if you need anything else you can email me or post it here
JAH Bless

I picked up surfing because it was a "cheap thrill" bum a ride to the beach & if you have a board there u have it a whole afternoon of top notch entertainment + work out + tanning all rolled into one. It's WAAAAAAAY cooler than any movie could ever make it out 2 B

& what keeps me going???? The last wave I rode. Having my girlfriend shoot photos of me surfing so I can study them in my Ipod video & watch them on my TV (to my own music that I wrote & recorded) using my AV cable. Just the stoke u get from becoming "one"

Thank you onces more this topic saved my projekt...

Im planing trying to surf this summer do to the spirit i fell in here.. think im gonna love it