After a year or more of hiatus from surfing
Posted: Tue Aug 26, 2025 9:01 pmI'm back 
. Why? Because I broke my finger from onewheel and once you get into early 40's your body start to deteriorate. Last December I blacked out for no reason, it was like tinnitus. Then I started getting chest pains, tight chest, squeeze in the arms for the next few months. Was also getting heart palpitation for no reason even though I'm perfectly healthy. I try and surf once or twice a week and I gotta say, I still got it. First day it was hard to paddle out but I was still catching the waves. My body still remembers everything and I think I'm backed to around 80% of when I used to surf every other day.
I have to say I no longer see the usual faces in my local break, but that might be it's summer so once the crowd dwindles. I'll see the usuals again. Don't know how long I can keep up though as I'm doing it for health reason.
. Why? Because I broke my finger from onewheel and once you get into early 40's your body start to deteriorate. Last December I blacked out for no reason, it was like tinnitus. Then I started getting chest pains, tight chest, squeeze in the arms for the next few months. Was also getting heart palpitation for no reason even though I'm perfectly healthy. I try and surf once or twice a week and I gotta say, I still got it. First day it was hard to paddle out but I was still catching the waves. My body still remembers everything and I think I'm backed to around 80% of when I used to surf every other day. I have to say I no longer see the usual faces in my local break, but that might be it's summer so once the crowd dwindles. I'll see the usuals again. Don't know how long I can keep up though as I'm doing it for health reason.
