Surfing Waves

Can anyone tell me what it feels like to get barreled. I am just waiting for the day that i am good enough and experienced enough to break my barrelling cherry.

let's just say you need to work on holding your breath for as long as you can

mrbee2828 wrote:let's just say you need to work on holding your breath for as long as you can

Umm what?.

Anyway, how new are you to surfing?. Waves that break and form tubes usually hit up to the 15 foot range. And thats not an easy wave to nail as a beginner. It took me 2 years before I was riding 10+foot waves. And let me tell you, it took me even longer to nail a barrel.

Remember, you have to ride the wave out and actually make it INTO the barrel.

orbital wrote:Remember, you have to ride the wave out and actually make it INTO the barrel.

hehe. Amen to that. Getting into one's the hard part, after that I find dipping your leg/butt into the water'll slow you enough to stay on the wave face. That and a little blind luck always hepls the first few times

mrbee2828 wrote:let's just say you need to work on holding your breath for as long as you can

very strange; I thought the question was along the lines of "what it feels like to get barreled".

orbital wrote:...Waves that break and form tubes usually hit up to the 15 foot range...

Sorry but waves of all sizes can form a tube. I believe that the formation of tubes or barrels is directly proportional to the depth and shape of the ocean floor to the waves height and speed; not soley related to the size of the wave.

As for what it is like, keep getting out there if you really want to know...
___________________

"Seek first to understand, then to be understood"

my new years resiultion this year was to get barreled :D

grub wrote:

mrbee2828 wrote:let's just say you need to work on holding your breath for as long as you can

very strange; I thought the question was along the lines of "what it feels like to get barreled".

orbital wrote:...Waves that break and form tubes usually hit up to the 15 foot range...

Sorry but waves of all sizes can form a tube. I believe that the formation of tubes or barrels is directly proportional to the depth and shape of the ocean floor to the waves height and speed; not soley related to the size of the wave.

How many 4 foot waves have you surfed the barrel?

orbital wrote:How many 4 foot waves have you surfed the barrel?

only one ive been in

barrels are awesome, even if they are in 4 foot close out beach break surf. your kinda in it for 3 or 4 seconds max, and then your in whitewater, but whatever, its sweet.

orbital wrote:...How many 4 foot waves have you surfed the barrel?

well the last one was on Friday 20th January at Cabedelo de Viana in Portugal... the wave would not have been no more than 4 foot; had to get down and tuck in to get inside...

And if you want to head down this path, please explain this comment:

orbital wrote:...Remember, you have to ride the wave out and actually make it INTO the barrel.

Most of the barrels I have got, I have had to get down (generally grabing the rail) to pull into from take off... Yes some you get along the wave face (such as the 4 foot one I got above ) but not regular enough to make a statement like this .

I think what he mean was on big waves, where you make the drop, make the bottom turn, get ahead of the barrel, then stall for it.

I'm no barrel expert...

...But I find it easier to backdoor them

I think, maybe, its 'cos I tend to ride a little heavy on the front foot (sometimes a good thing, more often not a good thing) so find stalling not as effective as generating a short burst of speed into the back of it

And, yeah, Im on the 4ft barrels here. And the last time was in October at Puts (devon, UK). I've not seen a good shaped wave for a while! Must change that asap!

This is taken from www.sharkbait.co.uk (the brighton surf site) and its of Jamie Stockwell on Tamarama. Show how to get into a barrel beautifully!






Nicely done...

Note the Stall in the 2nd frame.