Surfing Waves

Any one heard of the Aberystwyth Harbour Trap? Its where the river Ystwyth and the Rheidol meet and then go out of the harbour mouth to the sea.

Well today the surf was lookin good so I decided to try out my new wettie n winter stuff - grabbed my board & headed out. Never surfed The Trap before but always seen ppl out there.

No one else was out - I presumed this was cos everyone is revisin for exams n stuff; hehe, not me tho

I paddled out past the break and just sat there for a while looking and enjoyin the peace of not having anyone around. Started to paddle back in to get some waves and realised I was getting nowhere fast.

I think I'd got stuck in some major current cos I was paddling like f*** and got absolutely nowhere . Had to think quickly and not panic, so jumped off my board and decided to use it like some huge float, and swam with my reaining one arm and both legs back to the shore. Didnt think I was ever goin to get there.

Took me about 20 mins to get 150m back onto the shore - finally got there absolutely exhausted, was scrambing up the beach on my hands and knees trying to get out of the water but had like NO energy left.

When I got back to the beach I just collapsed and lay there for about half an hour shaking, exhausted and totally terrified as to what could have happened.

I'm not goin to bother with The Trap for a while again methinks. Its not like Im some puny female either - I'm bloody strong for my size and a damn good swimmer - probably a good job really or praps I wouldnt be writing this just now

.. certainly glad ya are

I never heard of that spot but im sure some of the good peeps here will have .. youve been surfing a lot longer than me darhlin but i got this " survival reminder for meself : .. in the winter you cant afford to get dragged out to sea cause the temps gonna get ya so i stick to what i know or at least be with someone else ..in the summer i dont worry cause hopefully a dude or dudette can last a good few hours out there whilst waiting for a passing 'Roy' or summat

Oh yes - got to value those moments. The best lesson ever.

I got had in a smilar(ish) situation. A mate & me went surfing in the fog in Porthtowan one summer. The beach & surrounding were really bright & sunny, but thick fogged clung to the sea. We paddled out to be met by empty glassy 5ft peaks - but you couldnt see the shore.
All went pear-shaped when I paddled for a wave, and a big black cliff loomed out in front of me. Water smashing everywhere. We had no idea which way the rip had taken us....... effing 'orrible.
After paddling for an eternity, a beam of sunlight cut through the fog & illuminated an old mine wheel-house, giving us a bearings.......

I value that session so much - coz it taught me the power of panic. It's the panic that will kill ya.

IdRatherBeSurfing wrote: I paddled out past the break and just sat there for a while looking and enjoyin the peace of not having anyone around. Started to paddle back in to get some waves and realised I was getting nowhere fast.

I think I'd got stuck in some major current cos I was paddling like f*** and got absolutely nowhere

I dont know the spot, but I guess its west facing? There was a very strong offshore wind at the weekend. It caught out a few people - getting out back is real easy, but once you're beyond the break it whips you out to sea much quicker than you realise, and paddling into it is very hard work.

I had some trouble on sunday - paddled further out to see if I could get the waves before they jacked up to vertical, and then found it very tiring coming back in again

There is a certain state of the tide esp around mid on the drop where the river current is emphasised by the tidal drop. You gotta stay on the beachside of keep in place. but its usefull to use of your taking rights and need to get back to the peek.