Surfing Waves

Hi so a quick intro I started surfing when I was 15 yrs old and now 40 years on at the age of 55years old get a few sessions each month , the problem is lasted pretty much most of my surfing years where I am an experienced and rate myself as a "good" surfer with a great deal of experience. My main problem is lack of consistency where one day I could be onto of things and surf well then the next day and more surf like its my first day out a real beginner, not sitting in the right place , catch only one or two waves that session but either fall on basic take off or have no idea what my body is doing no co-ordination at all. I have a good quiver different boards like a soft board also to keep me catching waves easier when they are not sk good it's very frustrating and even depressing when i go through this, like 1 good surf - 5 bad ones. Any advise for consistently inconsistent
Many thanks

Pay attention to where you sit on the board and how far the nose is from your nose. It seems most likely to me that you aren't consistent in where you lay on the board to paddle for the waves so you perform inconsistently because of that. It may be harder to catch the wave the further back you are and the board will ride differently with you back on the board although that might be a good thing. When I popup I try to popup backwards so I am laying more forward and popup more back on the board. Also look at the waves before you go out. See what they are doing and how others are riding them then make your plan on what you are going to do.

Hi thanks for the tip I think in general it's a mind factor learn to control your mind for example how big wave surfers have decided when they turn and paddle they are 100% confident and focused where sum of us will put the breaks on when you look down the drop ( sometimes causing a worse wipeout ) than if you had gone.
Master your mind and your abilities will allow you to preform at your best level

Good advice to myself

Serious question: When was the last time you changed out the wax on your go to board ?

Surf4evrr wrote:Hi so a quick intro I started surfing when I was 15 yrs old and now 40 years on at the age of 55years old get a few sessions each month , the problem is lasted pretty much most of my surfing years where I am an experienced and rate myself as a "good" surfer with a great deal of experience. My main problem is lack of consistency where one day I could be onto of things and surf well then the next day and more surf like its my first day out a real beginner, not sitting in the right place , catch only one or two waves that session but either fall on basic take off or have no idea what my body is doing no co-ordination at all. I have a good quiver different boards like a soft board also to keep me catching waves easier when they are not sk good it's very frustrating and even depressing when i go through this, like 1 good surf - 5 bad ones. Any advise for consistently inconsistent
Many thanks

Obvious answer is to increase the frequency that you surf. Beyond that, doing mobility and surf strength type exercises and fitness routines as well as cardio won't hurt either. Practicing pop ups at home, better yet in front of a mirror, practice for a left and for rights. One thing I do when a surf is going badly, where it seems that I am constantly out of position or out of sync is to stay inside after a wave and watch the waves a bit from the water before going back out back. That and force myself to be active, not just sitting and waiting on the board, but to go move and find peaks, paddle inside a bit between sets and get some of the smaller non set waves then back out again.

Surf4evrr wrote:Hi thanks for the tip I think in general it's a mind factor learn to control your mind for example how big wave surfers have decided when they turn and paddle they are 100% confident and focused where sum of us will put the breaks on when you look down the drop ( sometimes causing a worse wipeout ) than if you had gone.
Master your mind and your abilities will allow you to preform at your best level

So you have the answer yourself? I agree that controlling your mind helps but confidence comes from success not without it. You need to make your body do what is needed to be successful. If you perform well then you gain confidence. My theory is that slight changes in position on the board affects your ability to perform. However there is another possibility you raise yourself is if the waves are challenging your confidence. It's not like you have the same conditions every day you surf. Some days you may feel more challenged or afraid. Big wave surfers don't go out if they are afraid but challenge is a good thing. They don't just suddenly ride big waves, they prepare riding smaller waves and working on safety protocols and breath holding. The way you look at a challenge may be the difference. Prepare and train and use your fear to focus your mind and body. People have different reactions to fear. Some are like a deer in the headlights they freeze up. This won't work in dangerous situations. You need to get past that and learn to use fear to focus your mind and perform at your best ability. I think all the big wave surfers feel fear but some don't want to use that word to describe what they feel. They all need to set limits based on their own limitations. To ignore the danger is to increase your risk of injury. Big wave surfers confidence is related to their past performance on similar conditions.

waikikikichan wrote:Serious question: When was the last time you changed out the wax on your go to board ?

I have a few different boards but non of my wax is black and or so old on there I often use a wax scraper and rejuvenate the wax