Surfing Waves

Hey everyone,

Bit of background: I surfed a bit as a kid/teenager and after having lived inland for most of my adult life have started again at 38 and am loving it (although I'm right back at the beginning). Unfortunately, I broke my fibula a couple of weeks ago (not in the ocean) and have to cancel the 3 month surfing trip I had planned this winter. No idea how long it's going to take to heal enough for me to continue to learn to surf... but really want to get back in the water as soon as I can walk/swim.

Bodyboarding occurred to me, but I'd like to get out the back and not be jumping around on my ankle so much - for which I'm presuming I'd definitely need fins - also a no-go for my ankle. I'm wondering if bodyboarding on a Beater would be possible - basically, I'd need to paddle with my arms and then stay on my belly, so my question is. . .

How easy/hard is it to get up to speed on a beater? Am I going to fall off while paddling? Is catching an unbroken wave on a beater a wild dream for a fairly physically strong beginner? Does anyone have any deeper water no leg surfing ideas? Just laying around on my 6ft foamie did also occur to me although it might get depressing.

Thanks in advance guys

Gregory

If you are in the water catching waves it is not depressing, a beater is a good idea and bodyboarding on it GREAT, everything is over head.
You will gain and maintain paddle power using your arms, there are now prone hard boards being made as my aged contemporaries lose their pop up, limbs etc……… not recommend a kneeboard yet as there is a lot of pressure on the ankle even if you don‘t use fins to paddle.
The kneelingpart there is the issue.
Back to the beater, yes catching speed is possible and like a bodyboard you will be engaging with steeper drops.
Play and check how it feels for you, HAVE FUN. Hey a soft beater can be used. in designated body surf areas

Thanks for the tips Jaffa - that's encouraging!
I just mean to lay on the board I was meant to be standing on but yes, I agree if I can get out there I'll be really happy!

Good timing for this question.
Try searching Joel Taylor Paralympic

He was a former world champion bodyboarder that had an accident at Pipeline. Lost the use of his legs.

I think it's important to heal your injury. The ocean can be a rough place to play and if you reinjure the fracture it will prolong the time out of from surfing. That said it is likely that you can just use whatever board you were using for surfing laying down instead of standing on it (at least I can, I find that I can ride any board I use laying down standing or kneeling.) There was a Hawaiian paralyzed surfer who would ride fairly big waves can't recall his name, but he rode a longboard laying down. There was a quadriplegic surfer who rode Teahupoo recently. The longer the board the easier to catch a wave and if you use a beater it will require kicking unless you are catching whitewater. Not sure what is required for healing your injury but make sure you do that first then find what fits in to that.

@waikikikichan Thanks! I can't believe he's only been back on for a year!

@oldmansurfer
Thanks for the tips! You're right - but I actually have a plate holding everything together, so once my bone is healed around that I don't need to worry about breaking (weight-bearing after 6 weeks). It's more that it could take me a really long time to get strength and mobility back enough to pop up and surf (if at all - it's also my right side and I'm goofy) and I could have some nerve damage from the surgery so just looking for a plan B.

If you try to use a board laying down, you can turn from the top of the wave since no time is needed for a popup. So on a steep drop try to take off at a slight angle and grab the outside rail and pull up before you get to the bottom. This way you will avoid pearling

I broke my Fibula 5 weeks before the Hawaiian Noseriding Classic contest. Doctor told me "No surfing for 3 months". I called the organizer to tell him my situation, but he wouldn't refund my entry fee. So I ended up paddling out with my "moon boot", thinking I just lay there, come in and grab my contest shirt and that'll be it.



Ended up winning my division with some heavy competition.

waikikikichan wrote:I broke my Fibula 5 weeks before the Hawaiian Noseriding Classic contest. Doctor told me "No surfing for 3 months". I called the organizer to tell him my situation, but he wouldn't refund my entry fee. So I ended up paddling out with my "moon boot", thinking I just lay there, come in and grab my contest shirt and that'll be it.

Ended up winning my division with some heavy competition.

20100916_1066653 (1).jpg

Woah that's awesome! I was momentarily annoyed with the organiser for not refunding you but it seems to have worked out!
I see you also broke your front? did you have to work out a new pop up? Maybe long term if the tendon damage is too much I could longboard with a brace on!

I am still trying to remember the name of the surfer who rode prone on a longboard. I think it was something like Duwai Lee

It was Leigh Wai Doo