Surfing Waves

I prefer long, smooth glides on 3 foot waves in the early morning glass. I like a mellow lineup with folks who don't mind chatting between sets. To thin out the crowd I target midweek sessions at beach breaks with multiple sandbars. I don't have as much fun on bigger days. Too much competition and tension.

What say you?

https://www.theinertia.com/surf/i-think-three-foot-surf-is-actually-the-worlds-best-surf/#

I haven't surfed this year yet so anything would be better than what I have had so far

I have been thinking about this alot strangely, I've been really enjoying surfing tiny waves the last month or so as we have had very consistent knee to waist high offshore waves (way bigger than normal for this time of the year!) and I've been really enjoying it. Going out on my fish and not expecting anything from a wave, if I manage to do any fun manouvres I'm stoked and if not I'm just stoked to have a wave with so few people out, and normally in the sun on these days, however, in mid winter my favourite days are big onshore days, with big faces and almost coping on the lip to play with, and hardly anyone out. Sadly these are much more infrequent than bad vibes (and flat days haha). I have to agree with the article though, everyone is kelly slater on their 10 point ride when the waves get good, even if they can hardly do a turn!

oldmansurfer wrote:I haven't surfed this year yet so anything would be better than what I have had so far

Thats rough man, why haven't you been able to surf?

PipeDreams wrote:

oldmansurfer wrote:I haven't surfed this year yet so anything would be better than what I have had so far

Thats rough man, why haven't you been able to surf?

My wife had a stroke and then a bunch of other problems high blood pressure, shingles covid . I have been her caregiver. I am also ending my business and still working to get that done. Hopefully soon I will be able to. I have surfboards and live close to the beach

oldmansurfer wrote:

PipeDreams wrote:

oldmansurfer wrote:I haven't surfed this year yet so anything would be better than what I have had so far

Thats rough man, why haven't you been able to surf?

My wife had a stroke and then a bunch of other problems high blood pressure, shingles covid . I have been her caregiver. I am also ending my business and still working to get that done. Hopefully soon I will be able to. I have surfboards and live close to the beach

Ouch, hope she gets better soon and you can get back in the water soon

How picky are you about deciding to surf and where to go?

Do the conditions have to be just right?



or do you make the best of what's there?

I make the best of what is there. Most often when it's perfect there are too many surfers out to be fun

Make the most of whats there, if I waited for the good days I would only surf a couple times a year at the local! I owe all my progression to paddling out in 1 ft slop, besides sometimes the worst surf turns on with no one out

BoMan wrote:How picky are you about deciding to surf and where to go?
Do the conditions have to be just right?
or do you make the best of what's there?]

What about you man?

My local is an hour and a half drive so I only make it about twice a month. I'm picky but will always go to get in my 2 sessions. I obviously I have more fun on clean days but I get in the best practice when it's sloppy. On closeouts I work on floaters and staying balanced through the turbulence. When it's too rough, I hop on a bodyboard and try to get tubed before the slam.

The conditions I surf in most often are somewhat chaotic. Many surfers will look at it and think there is nothing but slop. I will notice there is a most likely rideable wave coming in at a certain place infrequently. I take notice of something along the beach or close to the break to lineup with approximately. I may find 3 or 4 possible peaks to try and find marks for them all. After paddling out I try to find the wave I saw from the shore and make a better lineup along the shore. If the first one is too difficult then on to the next one. If I get a good ride then maybe some other surfers will come out. Sometimes I get good rides and sometimes not but I get exercise and practice with the various aspects of surfing and always feel glad I went out. The best rides I get most likely go unnoticed by anyone.