Surfing Waves

The past week or so there are a couple of overhead days. Yesterday everyone was in a minimal/funboard. Today everyone was in a longboard. In terms of wave size and swell period, it's pretty much the same. However I don't understand why the difference.

I went at the same time so the tide was same. However yesterday wave was just a little harder to catch, more peaky and break outside. Whereas today the waves were super thick, but powerful at the same time. It wasn't breaking but when it does it's overhead and long in the inside.

What is causing the difference? Is it the swell period? More energy in the wave? I used my longboard because I figured that everyone was using one. Plus the wave was very thick and I see some struggling to catch it even though it's like overhead. Are you able to tell from the surf forecast on which board to bring?

Considering I only use fun boards in all sizes of waves I find this question puzzling. LOL I guess it must work for them.

[quote="BaNZ} Are you able to tell from the surf forecast on which board to bring?[/quote]

Yes; I look at swell size, wind, swell direction, period, co-efficient, tide level and wind when deciding what board to surf. Familiarity with my home breaks paints a fairly reliable picture for me if what it’s going to be like but thats years of surfing the same spots (and sometimes not when conditions are not happening) and raking note of how the waves are with different combinations of those data points.

But still the best is to take two boards.

Difference for waves between a longboard and a mini mal day? For me no real difference; both lengths work in a wide variety of waves. I like riding a mini mal over a longboard on small days in crowded lineups; easier to manuver thru traffic and be in control. Mini is a little more flexible on steeper waves as well in that it fits in the wave at different angles a little better and has a good amount of rocker.

What you are describing with the waves could be a number of factors, period would be an obvious one but also swell direction can make a real difference at certain spots, but don’t worry about what other people are riding, ride what you like to ride on that type of day and go rip!!

BaNZ wrote:Are you able to tell from the surf forecast on which board to bring?

No matter the forecast for that day or the board you happened to bring with you, which skills / techniques do you have at your disposal ?





Duke Kahanamoku said " Surf the wave, NOT the board ".

Honduran saying: “No es la flecha, es el indio” (It’s not the arrow, but the Indian).

A good surfer can surf ANY board.