Surfing Waves

ahhh this is a bit of a rant but oh well…

it sucks when there is no surf but it sucks even more when its way too big. feels like the ocean is just laughing at you because there are waves but they are far beyond my abilities To make matters worse i got a new board in november but i was only able to take it out once cuz im stuck an hour inland at school, because of finals, and because i had the flu for a week and a half. So now that its break, i took it out for a session the other day and realized that the flu had taken its toll on me. it was like i had never paddled a board before… so when i got home i weighed myself and realized i had lost 7 pounds, mostly muscle im sure. and now, the swells are huge! so to sum things up… new board, no muscle (not that there was much to begin with haha), waves are too big. blah…

for those of you who can, go charge the xxxxx outta those waves!

Yeah, I know what you mean. I finally got a wet suit thick enough for winter as a birthday/early christmas present. I haven't been out in two months. I found out a really nice swell was coming in. I got down to the beach and suited up, but I couldn't even get out the back. It's been so flat every other weekend, and it was looking so perfect that day....

That happened to me in the spring, I couldn't get past the impact zone becuase it was like one contiuous set. It completely pissed me off because it was one of the few weekends of the year that I get to go to the beach, much less actually stay in an awesome ocean front house.

I got plowed the first time I surfed head high waves. Since then I developed a huge respect for surfers who surf big waves. I say charge! I just try to be careful that my board doesn't get damaged. Bodily injuries heal in time, board injuries do not.