Surfing Waves

Something just clicked, for years I've had my funboard I've never used it. The past two weeks or so I took out my 7'4 and 7'6 because I simply wanted to get more exercise in. Plus I'm hooked on electric skateboard that I've started to surf a lot less. Honestly I wasn't expecting to catch any waves at all. But instead I got other surfers in the line up cheering for me when I make those drops and cutback.

I really don't understand the physics of why I find it easier. Previously I would never take my longboard to the peak but just sit at the shoulder and catch waves. With the funboard, I'm catching the waves so easily. I can paddle and push down the nose of the board really hard and go deep into the section. I don't even have any problem nose diving or missing the waves. Maybe I'm just going through a lucky phase where the waves are good. But even then, I'm getting much longer rides on my funboard because I can make it out the faster sections.

Plus for once I can actually feel the fins of the board when I'm in the right section. However I still have one same problem. I need to take an extra step forward to push the nose down. I'm still trying to think why am I doing better. It just doesn't make any sense to me since it was such a struggle to surf a funboard last year. I don't think I want to take my longboard out for now while I'm still doing well. I feel like I might lose the feeling or skills for funboard.

I would think it's because of the "Sensation of Speed". While riding your powered skateboard, you unconsciously look out in to distance once you start moving fast. Basically your body saying, "Hey you better check out what you're going to run into".

So you got used to looking ahead and NOT looking at the nose of your longboard. Your eyes are now up and out.

I think that's a huge contributor. Skateboard isn't so forgiving when travelling at 15-20mph. I have no time to look at the board when I'm at that speed. I constantly have to scout out the road ahead for any major bumps or rocks. Initially when I first started I recorded myself and I was checking my feet/board position every few minutes

With a funboard, I no longer have that extra 2 feet of board in front of me with a massive nose sticking out so I no longer focus on it. I suspect it's also half the weight so I'm less worried about getting hit by my own board. It's just easier to get out of the way if I fall off the board or when it closes out on me.

I think why I'm catching waves better is because I'm finally staying in the pocket. So say I'm sitting with my funboard in the shoulder on a left hand break. I'm about 10 feet away from the peak. With a longboard, I can catch the wave even though I'm 10 feet down the shoulder. With a funboard, I can't so I'm paddling really hard until the wave catches up on me. I've popped up and I'm now in the pocket. It's probably just my imagination but I gotta wait till I see myself on the camera.

My electric board only has 1 wheel. It won't turn fast enough if I just lean or use my neck to turn. I find that I started to use my whole upper body, arms and even legs to do sharper turns. I also have to kinda spin and throw out the tail to make those sharper turns. I believe it really helps with my surf.

Here's a video of me doing trails.

Hey man, glad to hear things are going well. I feel like the OW helped my surfing too. It only has a sensor on the front foot pad, so carving requires lots of weight distribution.. leaning into it with front foot for speed and then carving out of it with the back foot turn.. and then shifting weight forward again into the next turn. I think that helped a lot with using my front foot more as the accelerator in surfing.. and maintaining speed better thru turns.
Looks like you found some cool trails for it. Looks fun!

It is super fun on OW, I now spend more time on it than surfing. However I also experienced once of my first real wipeout on pavement last week. That hurts and it will take sometime to recover. I'm super lucky because the trails is right next to my house. You're probably a lot more experienced than me on the OW and in surfing. I can't wait till I get better as I'm still in the super kook stage.

Recently found a single track trail which goes on for miles and miles. It really gives me the zen and endorphin pumping when I go on it. Can't wait till the rain settles before I try it out again. But it's definitely very unforgiving unlike surfing. Do you have any nice trails around your area?

Ah man sorry that sucks about the fall. I've had a few of those too. Still have some battle scars. Stay safe man.
There aren't too many good options here in Jersey but I usually take it with me anytime i travel. Found some really fun places to ride in the Outer Banks and Virginia.