Surfing Waves

It felt walled up, fast drop, "sucky" and fully of tension is the best way I can describe the wall. And just when I thought I'm about to go onto the tapered shoulder, I got a bucket load of shampoo whitewater hitting my head.

Terminology for me would be a coverup. Tubed or barreled means to me that you have a clear vision of the lip landing in front of you

I think after viewing again that you were completely covered up so at least tubed but still barreled to me means that you can see the barrel. However this is just my own personal use. Anyway great for you to have footage of it. LOL I don't know how many times I have been covered up tubed and barreled. Probably hundreds of times. One time there was a photographer taking pictures but I almost run him over so not sure if he got any photos. But no one has photographed me surfing ever except one photo of me cutting out at the very end of a wave.

Not a barrel or tube ride. The lip threw over you, so you got "covered". It wasn't like pulling into an unmakable closeout as the wave munches you, and you did "come out".




Photo from Matsunosuke Kugenuma on FB

This guy is pulling into a beach break closeout. He definitely got "covered" but I am sure he didn't come out.

Oh well. This coming winter then.

Well I'm 73 now and over 60 years of surfing the barrels have been a rare but well remembered event the common factor was that the wave had enough power to throw the lip wide enough from the face to make a hole you could fit into and not get touched by the lip and you could see it from both sides of your face. Some were big enough to ride standing in a slight speed crouch and others required a pig dog stance.
I particular remember my best ever at Uluwatu big and long ( Forehand ), and a lucky Backhand on at Boneyards which if I hadn't made it Iwould have been added bones

The Mentawaiis provide the next four shot from sequences not barrels and not even a head dip just a cover up on a left hander and a duckunder on the right hander
Now two shots from different angles at the same time just a duckunder.






All nice but not barrels

When I was learning to surf the big deal was to get tubed and come out with dry hair. I can recall the first time I did that but after a while I started worrying about keeping my hair dry so that I could make that claim. Consequently I quit trying LOL. I loved to get tubed. Prior to surfing I was a bodyboarder and bodyboarding is the total tube riding experience. If you want multiple deep tubes try bodyboarding. The surfers where I lived would see me getting tubed repeatedly but I was careful to stay out of their way catching waves that they did not. They invited me to come out with them in their lineup and teach me the rules of the lineup. Many of them expressed how jealous they were of me getting tubed on nearly every wave. So I started off surfing wanting to get tubed however it's not as easy as bodyboarding. I am sure however that my experience as a bodyboarder helped me in riding tubes that and finding the shaper I did who made fast boards that were good for tube riding. I could tell what the wave was going to do and I knew to get high on the face to go faster. Once I got the surfing tube riding down I would sometimes go a week without getting in the tube. When that happened I would venture far for tubing waves looking for the fix. Quite often I was tubed on multiple waves and multiple times on the same wave. One day I surfed every wave was tubing out. This was the only time I got bored with getting tubed. It was just the same thing repeatedly and after 20 or so waves I was trying to find some kind of variation. No cameras though LOL

CV, can you guess where I am at ?

Judging from your favorite spot...Canoes? Next guesses would be Ala Mo area or west side.

ConcreteVitamin wrote:Judging from your favorite spot...Canoes?

Correct ! Canoes surf break going right at "A" point or Harada's Reef.