Surfing Waves

Howdy everyone! Missed most of the winter. Here are a few rides I got in the past season, looking for advice to improve. I'm the goofyfoot rider.

8'10 long hull





6'10 hull -- I'm pretty stoked about this wave. Even though it's small, but I had a great time waiting for the pocket to present itself (repeatedly).



7'8 twinzer -- Got the twinzer recently and was mind blown by the whole new level of maneuverability. This might be my first successful cutback + whitewater rebounce.

My question is if you are having fun? If so then it's all good. But I am not sure if you have herd me before speak about learning to use one board at a time. That was my suggestion before as well as now. But if you enjoy your surfing then never mind what I say

oldmansurfer wrote:My question is if you are having fun? If so then it's all good. But I am not sure if you have herd me before speak about learning to use one board at a time. That was my suggestion before as well as now. But if you enjoy your surfing then never mind what I say

Yes, having tons of fun & still wanting to improve on techniques and style

My basic idea about learning to surf and for safety sake is to use the same board at least 90 percent of the time and continue until you can do all the maneuvers you want to learn on that board and maybe some you never thought about learning. Then if you want to do something different try another board and use it 90 percent of the time. Each board works differently and if you change boards you don't get used to that difference and never learn to ride that board well. For safety sake you develop instincts or reactions you do in critical situations that are somewhat board specific so if you have just switched boards and get into a critical situation your reaction will be appropriate for the board you have spent the most time riding and maybe not the one you are on. Now you might point out that the pros switch boards but that is them and generally they aren't switching boards in conditions they feel are dangerous or if they do switch it's to a similar board. Also the pros all get injured as well. I think lots of surfers get caught up looking for a board that will make them a better surfer. My belief is that you learn to surf the board under your feet and a different board just makes you have to learn to use that board also so it slows down your learning. But having fun is the main goal.