Surfing Waves

How do you choose the best wave in a set?

For me mostly I judge by proximity and shape. How close am I to the right place to take off and how nice is the shape. If I stay out long enough I may notice differences based on the number of waves most often like the first wave is the best or worst but still it's the shape ultimately

Indonesia and big ground swell surfival observation, it’s often not the best policy to take the first wave.
WHY? Blow the the wave the entire wave train is going to unload on you, lots of duck dive, turtle or one of our forumite‘s duck dips sinceyou are in the impact zone, riding traffic

I guess if you fear the pounding then the risk isn't worth it. But taking some waves on the head is a part of surfing. Just don't blow it

64years of surfing , been pounded all around the surfing world, pick my waves, sometimes experience helps, sometimes the ocean has other plans! If it swells ride it!

oldmansurfer wrote:For me mostly I judge by proximity and shape. How close am I to the right place to take off and how nice is the shape. If I stay out long enough I may notice differences based on the number of waves most often like the first wave is the best or worst but still it's the shape ultimately

jaffa1949 wrote: it’s often not the best policy to take the first wave. WHY? Blow the the wave the entire wave train is going to unload on you.

Well said. I always watch the waves from shore before paddling out and look for this too.

When it's crowded I also look to see how the lineup responds to a set...especially after a lull. On "beginner days" most surfers go for the first wave leaving the following ones unridden! When more experienced folks are out they mostly wait for the best waves and my opportunity is going early.

BoMan wrote:How do you choose the best wave in a set?

The question you first need to ask is " Can you even choose ? ".
If other more advanced locals usually take the 2nd wave, then maybe the 1st wave will be more open.

Is there a "Bull" in the pack ? What wave does he/she usually go for ?

for me to avoid getting pounded when it's big I usually just go for the biggest of the waves coming in. That's my preference anyway. For one thing , you won't get caught inside unless you mess up. Another thing is if you miss the wave you may be in position to catch a smaller wave if the opportunity presents. When it's small I will do some crazy things just to keep myself on my toes like extreme late takeoffs or taking off extremely deep (if I am in shape enough) just to see what I can do. If I get caught by a set I think of it as practice going through waves. I do my best skills to go through the waves and avoid as much pounding as possible. However I am usually the only surfer out and can take my pick of what comes in. If there is a crowd I will find another peak to takeoff on that has no one or less surfers going for it.

oldmansurfer wrote:For me to avoid getting pounded when it's big I usually just go for the biggest of the waves coming in

Love this!

oldmansurfer wrote:If I get caught by a set I think of it as practice going through waves.

At my age I sadly have to conserve energy for hunting and catching waves. If I get caught inside too often my session is cut short.

BoMan wrote:On "beginner days" most surfers go for the first wave leaving the following ones unridden!

This is true but it often also means an impenetrable wall of debris to deal with on the next wave.

Haha! Good turning practice.

I visualise them lighting up like the bumpers on a pin ball machine

One of the places I used to surf would have bigger set waves. So say it was breaking 12 foot faces then out of the blue two waves that had 16 foot faces came in. I learned to surf this wave on my paipo board and could just go under the set waves un harmed. But I learned that a peak would show up way to the side like 300 yards over to the side then the peak would slide along toward the break as it got closer to the takeoff point. I guess directly outside of it was too deep to make the peak rise up so it hit the shallow water closer to the shoreline. I have seen similar waves at a break we called brassieres for it's two shifting peaks but it has a shallow reef and the waves are indistinguishable till they hit the shallow water. Anyway when I started surfing there, I kept my eyes out for the set waves in that spot they first announce themselves and I would warn the others but I also told them that if they saw me paddling for the outside they should paddle like hell. Of course then I would suddenly paddle like crazy then turn around and laugh at them scrambling. But I wanted some friends out there with me cause it's a scary at that size. Funny but the bigger waves were always not the best then so I would sit on the inside and catch the regular waves and just paddle over the sets then back in again. I guess the shape of the reef made them crumble and just be a big wall of mush at 8 feet but the 6 foot waves were tubing out. That break had a scary paddle out. There was a cliff and rocky shoreline and a shallow reef and you had to time the waves and paddle close to the rocky shoreline when the waves weren't breaking in that area. If you caught a wave you could paddle back out there or worse case come in and walk back around to the entry point. But the wave was a really great wave......on the right days. It was mainly a left but on some days there was a short right that was also hollow. Used to be it was rare to see anyone surfing there except the guy who lived in the house near the beach. I bet these days it will be crowded. I haven't surfed there in 30 years or so.

Lebowski wrote:

BoMan wrote:On "beginner days" most surfers go for the first wave leaving the following ones unridden!

This is true but it often also means an impenetrable wall of debris to deal with on the next wave.

I go in circles. First I never take the 1st wave as I mostly surf in beginner friendly spots and everyone takes#1. So I take #2 only to realize my turning is not good enough to handle the debris. I then wait for #3 or later and find they don’t work anymore. Then I do take #1 only to see that either I am in someone’s way or someone else blocks me. I am good at finding lose-lose situations.

Oldie wrote: I am good at finding lose-lose situations.

My least favorite experience...After a long lull when I'm cold or bored, I paddle for a small wave, ride it a few feet and get slammed by the set!

If there are constant 4 to 5 wave sets regularly then I never take the first wave, it’s just a thing. However if it’s inconsistent I take the first wave that I can. Not much theory there, but it works for me