Surfing big waves is...

...erm f scarey
!
I just got back from a week in Fuerteventura, Canary Islands and rode the biggest waves I've ever ridden. I was xxxxx scared paddling out and even more when the clean up sets came thru. But after talking myself out of paddling straight back in I managed to get one and was still alive so decided it wasn't so bad after all - but never the less a very humbling experience.
I reckon it was at least double overhead on the sets and powerfull as breaking on shallow reef - I have a few shots of me riding a few of the smaller waves that day.
Now I know how big and scarey it was out there but looking at these photos it looks like I'm just being a big wuss, so now when I see photos of people riding waves that still look big in the photo I now have a massive big greater respect for these surfers!

I just got back from a week in Fuerteventura, Canary Islands and rode the biggest waves I've ever ridden. I was xxxxx scared paddling out and even more when the clean up sets came thru. But after talking myself out of paddling straight back in I managed to get one and was still alive so decided it wasn't so bad after all - but never the less a very humbling experience.
I reckon it was at least double overhead on the sets and powerfull as breaking on shallow reef - I have a few shots of me riding a few of the smaller waves that day.




Now I know how big and scarey it was out there but looking at these photos it looks like I'm just being a big wuss, so now when I see photos of people riding waves that still look big in the photo I now have a massive big greater respect for these surfers!