by Dyyy.lan_ » Mon Aug 16, 2021 6:42 pm
by oldmansurfer » Tue Aug 17, 2021 3:35 am
by Dyyy.lan_ » Tue Aug 17, 2021 5:24 am
oldmansurfer wrote:So is that looks like a wipeout sequence, is that what happened (body going down and board going up wave)? Board too small only means you have to pick the spot to take off better.
by oldmansurfer » Tue Aug 17, 2021 8:03 pm
by Dyyy.lan_ » Tue Aug 17, 2021 9:20 pm
oldmansurfer wrote:On a small board you probably need to be deeper in the lineup because you need the wave to be steeper and some push from the lip. Hey there's always another day. South side is a little less hairy other than the bowl. Where are you headed? or where did you go? I think fear of the drop makes people go to the shoulder but on lots of bigger waves taking off on the shoulder is difficult because it walls up a lot pulling water up the face, which makes it difficult to get into the wave. Needs to be already walled up.
by oldmansurfer » Tue Aug 17, 2021 11:17 pm
by Dyyy.lan_ » Wed Aug 18, 2021 12:03 am
oldmansurfer wrote:My advice for bigger waves is take small steps. Don't go up in size too quickly. I had probably a unique situation learning to surf. I bodysurfed waves as big as what challenged you on the north shore long before I ever used a board so the fear of bigger surf wasn't an issue till it got bigger than that.. From there I proceeded to paipo boarding and got used to that in fairly large surf as well. Then I kneeboarded on my paipo boards for a while. When I switched over to surfing on a board I wasn't afraid of waves much bigger than I could ride but I just took things slowly going out in gradually bigger and bigger surf. The bigger the surf the better shape you need to be in. So work at fitness and get familiar with waves as big as they can be without scaring you. Gradually that size will go up. Also remember this is supposed to be fun and bigger waves aren't for everyone. The guys I learned to surf with did not want to go out in bigger waves. I was so surprised when they refused to accompany me in larger gnarlier surf but that was my mission so I kept at it.
by oldmansurfer » Wed Aug 18, 2021 1:57 am
by Dyyy.lan_ » Wed Aug 18, 2021 2:31 am
oldmansurfer wrote:Well Pipeline besides being a dangerous break and having awesome waves is a heavy crowd situation. To surf there you probably are going to need to start on tiny days and work your way up. Or if you get good enough then just go out and wait for someone to let you catch a wave or call you into one.
by jaffa1949 » Wed Aug 18, 2021 11:12 am
by oldmansurfer » Wed Aug 18, 2021 5:44 pm
by Dyyy.lan_ » Wed Aug 18, 2021 5:45 pm
jaffa1949 wrote:If you get to surf Pipe at size, you will have earned it! Go out before you are capable and seen to be capable by others out there!
You will need to understand how the break operates and where to be when the sets come through, you may well be sent in, or in a fight if you add to the dangers for others, , you will need serious skills not a spot on a bucket list!![]()
Go dive on a flat day, check the bottom and the gutters there, understand how swell direction and sand movement effect the quality of the shape..
Lots to learn!
by Dyyy.lan_ » Wed Aug 18, 2021 8:06 pm
oldmansurfer wrote:All boards have limitations but I have ridden every board that I regularly used in waves bigger than double overhead except for my current 7'6" rounded pintail funboard. That board has very little rocker and I have taken it out in steep fast hollow double overhead waves and because it has no rocker and a wide tail it gets down the face quicker than my other boards but at the bottom has so much speed that it comes out of the water and skitters along for a second or two. Once it settles back down it has no problem with double overhead waves and it never seemed to have any problems on smaller waves. I have to angle the takeoff from the top (but I do that anyway in steep hollow waves) so that I don't run out in front of the wave and possibly get hit by the lip. All the rest of the boards I have ever owned and used regularly have gone out in triple overhead waves or larger. I am of the opinion that surfing is about learning to use the board you have. That is how you gain skill. The is a large subset of surfers who seem to be on a constant search for that board that is going to make them surf better. Perhaps you are one those? Anyway things that help riding bigger steeper waves is more length and harder rails and a narrower tail and lots of tail rocker. Tail rocker makes the board turn and paddle like a shorter board so if you go up in size and tail rocker then you should probably go up a little more in size to make up for the lack of push from the wave with lots of tail rocker. The board needs to fit the face of the wave so if it's too long it doesn't fit. There was one of the last Eddies at Waimea Bay where Kelly Slater and John Florence were both using shorter boards than the others. This was because they wanted to get tubed at Waimea and the longer boards didn't fit the face of the tubing part of Waimea. One thing you might do is find a local shaper to make boards for you. Tell him honestly where your surfing is at and where you want to be and see if he can make you a board that is better for you specifically. I currently use all custom made boards made for an old man who is overweight and out of shape (me). They are all epoxy boards and I use quad fins , a 7 foot egg (wide nose narrow tail continuous rocker, 7'6" wide rounded pin extra thick and wide funboard with very little rocker and my favorite 8' oldmaoverweightoutofshape board which is a narrower rounded pintail funboard and it seems good on anything from knee high to triple overhead.
by jaffa1949 » Wed Aug 18, 2021 8:21 pm
by oldmansurfer » Wed Aug 18, 2021 8:26 pm
by Dyyy.lan_ » Wed Aug 18, 2021 8:45 pm
oldmansurfer wrote:every person and every board is different so to make some kind of blanket statement about what a board can do or a surfer can do in general is wrong. It depends on the specific surfer and specific board and the specific wave.
by Dyyy.lan_ » Wed Aug 18, 2021 8:46 pm
jaffa1949 wrote:You are being thorough and aware in your quest to ride pipe and having watched it as a kid and built the dream, it is so much more achievable than just bucketlisting. All the elements are there for you to do it!!
by waikikikichan » Wed Aug 18, 2021 10:19 pm
Dyyy.lan_ wrote:i was about to ask my local shaper to help me get the right board like dims,shape,rockers and volume.ill send a email out to a couple of shapers out by next week to help me but not buy yet because custom boards cost way more then stock boards
Dyyy.lan_ wrote:im sorry are u saying im making a blanket statement?if so when have i?everything i said was for me personally and i have said everyone is different and what the board can do is from the website itself
by oldmansurfer » Wed Aug 18, 2021 10:55 pm
by Dyyy.lan_ » Wed Aug 18, 2021 11:12 pm
waikikikichan wrote:Dyyy.lan_ wrote:i was about to ask my local shaper to help me get the right board like dims,shape,rockers and volume.ill send a email out to a couple of shapers out by next week to help me but not buy yet because custom boards cost way more then stock boards
To get the "right" board you need to work with your shaper. It's like a relationship that grows over time. He learns about you as you give him feed back about the boards he builds and makes adjustments. That said, asking other shapers their opinion is like flirting around when you already got a good companion. And especially when you going to "wop dea jaws" and not buy from them.Dyyy.lan_ wrote:im sorry are u saying im making a blanket statement?if so when have i?everything i said was for me personally and i have said everyone is different and what the board can do is from the website itself
Braddah, Uncle is trying fo help u, chill out and show some respect.
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