Surfing Waves

Do you have a broken leash story?

I was paddling back out through a lot of white water when a sneaker wave rose up in front of me. I was tired from the effort and made a lame turtle roll before the wave broke. The board was ripped from my hands and I felt a brief pull on the line before it went slack. I came to the surface and realized I was 200 yards from shore with with a water filled wetsuit and booties. I turned over and made an easy backstroke in. As the waves hit I tried to body surf before returning to the slow swim. The only scary moment was a near miss with a small fishing boat driving too fast out of the channel. Although it never got closer than 20 feet the driver did not see me and I dove deep to make sure there was no collision!

Broke one last week….not much of a story. Was a waist to shoulder high small day and surfing at fat high tide. Innocuous wave, did not kick out and did that one last turn across the final bit of the breaking wave….board kept going and swam the rest of the way into the beach to get it. Was a fairly new dakine leash which surprised me a little but regardless of brand reputation all leashes can/do break.

I was 400 yards from shore and leash broke so I start swimming in following my board but board manages to outswim me and at 100 yards form shore it was just a few feet away from the rocky shoreline. I sprinted the last bit and managed to not have a heart attack but I was so winded I couldn't barely do anything but breath. I took a wave on the head and realized as tired as I was I needed to paddle over another 15 yards to get past the rocky shoreline and to the sand area so I paddled out of breath and made it back to the beach without damage to myself or the board. However it took me 5 minutes to go the last 10 yards to the beach as I was catching my breath and cooling down. Now I have some more spectacular leash came off stories

I don't have any good broken leash story.

One time I went to surf a cove spot. Forgot to bring my leash and wetsuit. Figured I do not need one since wave is fairly small. The cold water drained my energy quickly and I was struggling to swim back when I lost the board.

Another time the leash broke after I got out the water. Lucky!

Few weeks ago I went into the water but I forgot to tie the leash to my leg. Small day but it was very rocky and I had to do the walk of shame.