Surfing Waves

“The moment you doubt whether you can fly, you cease forever to be able to do it". - Peter Pan

I agree with this if one word is removed....forever. My challenges in life have always been more about self doubt than the task at hand.

When I took up surfing after a 30 year hiatus I struggled with paddling my 5'11" fish in short period waves. My arms were weak. There was little recovery time between whitewater walls and there wasn't enough foam to float my new stout self. All this got into my head and I felt bad for not being the man from my past. After finally deciding not to beat myself up I got a longboard, found a long period break and started having fun again.

What do you think?

Things change. As we say here "No can help" or translated "change is inevitable." Adapt and move on so you don't get left behind where you used to be. I am glad you found a way to stay happy.

Concerning the Peter Pan saying I don't agree with it explicitly but something like that. I find myself doubting that I can make a drop or catch a wave but I do it anyway. But maybe I don't give up because of the doubt and that is why I still succeed. You need to give it a chance or it won't happen. However along with that you also need to know when to not keep trying. It's a very fine point of distinction one is barely accomplishing what you want and the other is failing to accomplish what you want. Have to work on learning to distinguish between those two points.

"Ride the Wave, Not the Board"

– Duke Kahanamoku

Buy a king fish, you will be stoked you can ride it! about 6'10" x 22 x 3 will do, or borrow one if you got a bud that can lend you one.

I actually used my king fish as a long board for a long time, ended up going down to a 6'2 retro fish at 56yrs and 180lbs.

Anyway, just a thought, good to hear you got your stoke back!!!!