Surfing Waves

Is more rocker better ? More fins / Less fins better ? Or maybe the problem is longboards can't take off on steep pitching waves, so I should get a 8 footer or mid-length to help me make the drop ?


Fast forward to 0:17

You need to have a comparison between that guy and someone who doesn't know what they are doing in the same break. When I restarted surfing I used a longboard with lots of tail rocker but I used to think that I was pearling because of a lack of nose rocker. When I got a board with lots of nose rocker I realized that wasn't the problem and I still pearled in the same situations even with a nose rocker. In my defense I never surfed a longboard much prior to that (only 2 times)

It looks like a small mistake = wipeout. Feels like you need to be really good to be able to surf a longboard in conditions like that. At his skill level, wouldn't it be easier to just surf a smaller board?

Is more rocker better ? More fins / Less fins better ? Or maybe the problem is longboards can't take off on steep pitching waves, so I should get a 8 footer or mid-length to help me make the drop ? - WKKKChan

After 70 turns on the planet I freely admit that the nose rocker on my longboard has saved me from MANY early exits. Slowing down (in no particular order) are my popup, cross steps, and anticipation. That said, I agree with Chan's point and see it regularly in the water.

Don't get me wrong, this post isn't to put down anyone's questions or anyone's skill. My objective is to inspire. It was thought that the 4 minute mile was impossible, until Roger Bannister did. Inspired by his unbelievable accomplish, soon others started to also surpass the 4 minute mile barrier.
Yes, in some circumstances, it might be easier with a shorter board, or more rocker, or more/less fins. BUT are you surfing in that heavy steep quick beach break ? No, than maybe YOU CAN make the drop in your not so critical wave ( with the right technique ).

So many have asked how to do a high line and angled take off. Watch the video and notice he gets in by getting DOWN. Then executes a bottom turn and sets his line ( and being on the back tail and inside edge ).

By the way, did you notice Ben was taking off way deeper than any of the other shortboards ?

You can try to do a high line angled takeoff on lurching up waves like shorebreak but you're going to end up doing a bottom turn anyway.

That is some beautiful riding and technique!! He's not even angling in to make it easier, it looks like he's even fading some takeoffs so he can get barreled.

I think the moral of the story is that regardless of the wave or the board, in the end it's up to you to make it work. Every board is a combination of different attributes, if you work with the board you can make it work with the wave. In this case, he's making really smooth drop-ins that look a little earlier than the shortboarders would, and with his back foot he's nailing them with relative ease (because he's good!)

Obviously there are outlier situations (such as this video) that beginners should do differently, but if you are in one of these you probably already know what you're doing.