Surfing Waves

Will bigger fins will hold me on the face better ? I heard twin fins aren't good for steep good waves ?

Check out Josh Kerr on a twin fin fully on rail. See how his back and shoulders create the "I-Beam" effect inline with the angle of the deck.

Now check out the guy bent over and broken at 2:30. Reaching out and grabbing. Notice his front foot turned in closed ?


You think he should change his fins ?

Interesting. All those surfers seem pretty decent except this one guy. What's his problem? Maybe a beginner or intermediate as many (beginner) surfers would say. I think he lacked turning skills or the board was not right for the waves. Also the inside part where he fell down the waves were doing some sketchy things undoubtedly hitting shallow areas and breaking in a difficult to ride manner as mostly everyone kicked out before there. Finless board? I don't know but it seems odd that everyone else is obviously much better surfers than him.

At 2:08 you can see him enter the water with the red rashguard ripper. Might be his paid local escort. To show him where to sit and give him some "protection".

His closed front foot restricts his movement backside and when he goes frontside again, he has no edge/rail control and board spits out from under him. He gingerly turns by leaning back. Board is fine. Fins are fine. Rider is not.

I guess he is a beginner but doing well to catch the wave and ride it bending over the whole ride. Hopefully not causing problems for the other surfers. If you watch the wave where he wiped out it was walling up due to shallow water and so maybe not such a big deal he fell down. The water on the face of the wave is doing different things than on the rest of the wave and if you aren't expecting it then it's easy to do the wrong thing in those kind of areas.

It looked like his head wanted to get barreled but the rest of his body was like noooooo! Interesting technique. The spot/conditions seemed way ahead of his ability

I'd say the board is actually not fine. He seems to be in need of a bigger board to get the poo stance out of the way.