Surfing Waves

Dimensions is 7'4 22 x 3" 56 litres. I wanted a 7'6 because I had one years ago and I loved it. But they didn't have any in stock and my board is all dinged up so I need to send it in for repairs and it will be out of action for weeks.

This is really a strange board because it has more volume and thickness than my old 7'6. I'm kinda worried that this wouldn't work out well, I'm thinking maybe I should exchange it for a 7'6 when they have it in stock. Will I struggle with it being 56L and me at 60kg?

What do you mean by struggle? You may need to surf it more like a long board (wider turns, really get back onto the tail etc) than a heavier person (who may be able to bury the rail more), but that won’t make you struggle. Just a slightly different style.

I have a 7’4 x 22 1/2 x 2 7/8. It’s a great easy to surf board for lazy or small days, almost impossible to fall off once you are up.

I'm more of thinking if it's too buoyant, it can't be good? It's also a mentality thing, I know I can surf a 7'6. I'm hoping I'll be able to surf a 7'4 as well as it's only two inch smaller.

One of the main reason I got this is because there's this break that I've been surfing. All the shortboards and fish are sitting on the reef to blocking out the longboards from getting the waves. I went to the shortboard lineup and sit next to them and managed to catch a few waves but it was really hard. I took some steep drop and some I was not able to make it. I'm hoping a 7'4 should be able to make the drop easier.

I wish it would be able to catch as much wave as my 9'0 as well when it is in repair.

I don’t notice much difference in wave catching between my 9’1 and 7’4, although like you that’s because I already know how to catch waves (different for a beginner of course). Maybe only in very small waves, like under knee high. I do notice that the 7’4 doesn’t glide like a longboard once on the wave - you need to do a little bit of speed generation if the wave is weak, although once it’s chest high that isn’t an issue

I doubt you will notice the 2 inch difference from a 7’6 at all.

Personally ‘buoyancy’ isn’t a concern with boards over 7ft. Sure a 6ft board with 50L will float high and slip around and be less stable, but a 7ft+ board and - as mentioned - if needed you just surf it more off the tail than rail to rail and no issue.

Whether you can catch waves doing a late short board drop is, I guess, for you to find out!

I have a 7'4" that "looser" than my 6'6". If the 7'6" and the 7'4" are from the same maker and same model ( especially if it's a molded board ) maybe you could "feel" one is bigger. But you can not base your criteria on just LENGTH. You can have 10 different 7'4"s and they'll all ride totally different. You can't go on VOLUME ( and I always tell people to forget about volume). There is way more variables, Rocker, bottom contours, rail, tail. flat deck / dome deck.

BaNZ wrote:I'm more of thinking if it's too buoyant, it can't be good? It's also a mentality thing, I know I can surf a 7'6. I'm hoping I'll be able to surf a 7'4 as well as it's only two inch smaller.

One of the main reason I got this is because there's this break that I've been surfing. All the shortboards and fish are sitting on the reef to blocking out the longboards from getting the waves. I went to the shortboard lineup and sit next to them and managed to catch a few waves but it was really hard. I took some steep drop and some I was not able to make it. I'm hoping a 7'4 should be able to make the drop easier.

I wish it would be able to catch as much wave as my 9'0 as well when it is in repair.

So you want a board that floats/catches waves like your 9'0" but if better to take the steep drops lined up with the shortboarders. You can ride a 7'6" and the 7'4" is 2 inches shorter but has more volume. Sounds like the perfect board for your needs.

BaNZ wrote:Will I struggle with it being 56L and me at 60kg?

I'm 57 kg and my board is over 70L

Learn how to paddle. Learn how to bottom turn. Learn how to trim before you try to battle with the shortboarders on their own turf.

Great size, I use that size instead of a longboard. At 60Kg that is plenty of board, and I had an 8ft and loved the extra maneuverability of the 7'4 but it paddled almost as good. Enjoy.

I haven't taken the 7'4 out yet because the waves are getting big in SoCal. I lose my ability to do anything on the wave once it gets to overhead. My feet are locked and my body is locked, it's like a fear of falling and running over somebody. The reef break over here have slow and fast sections that I'm unable to time it well. I'm either going too fast or too slow and I cannot stay consistently in the pocket.

BaNZ wrote:I haven't taken the 7'4 out yet because the waves are getting big in SoCal. I lose my ability to do anything on the wave once it gets to overhead. My feet are locked and my body is locked, it's like a fear of falling and running over somebody. The reef break over here have slow and fast sections that I'm unable to time it well. I'm either going too fast or too slow and I cannot stay consistently in the pocket.

You gotta drive around. Today Ocean Beach was big and no way to get out, so we drove over to Law street and got out just fine. Look for the ideal spot for your ability. Also, when I was a beginner, I would stick to the inside and ride whitewash to practice pop-up's, nothing wrong with a good day of practicing.