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wave drunk or stoned?!

PostPosted: Fri Oct 16, 2020 11:08 pm
by elduderino
new member here, followed this site for a few years finally signed up.. thanks for having me.. anyway bit of an odd question, but has anyone spent so long surfing or just being out on the water that you start to feel a little bit drunk or stoned?!

i was out for over 3.5 hours yesterday until dark, (a regular session for me would be max 1.5 hrs) i didn’t talk to anyone, the waves were pretty constant so i didn’t really think/day dream about anything the whole
time just pure concentration on the sea, and i came home really zoned out and slept like a baby. I woke up this morning and can’t really remember a whole lot about it!!
i dunno if i went deep into a wave meditation or what?!
anyone else had days like that?

Re: wave drunk or stoned?!

PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 12:49 am
by oldmansurfer
There have been times when I was in a different mood surfing. One time I recall I was surfing a big right and finally figured out how to get in the tube in these double overhead tubing waves. I got a deep tube ride and the tube was huge for the size of the wave. It was so enormous I was riding fully standing up with my arms straight out to the sides trying to touch both the lip and the wall and not able to touch either. I was just cruising along and it was like I became extremely calm and relaxed and it kept going and going for a bit but after a while that changed because there was a pile of rocks that stuck out of the water in the general direction I was headed and I could not see them due to the curvature of the wave and how deep I was in the tube. I went from a zen state to a hyperaware state.

Re: wave drunk or stoned?!

PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 4:09 am
by BoMan
My attention wanders during the flat spells between sets. I watch seagulls stealing fish from the pelicans. I notice what boards other people are riding. I feel the kelp gradually winding around my feet. And then I take one on the head! :bang:

Re: wave drunk or stoned?!

PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 3:45 pm
by jaffa1949
Depending on the temperature, hot very sunny, = hyperthermia and or slight onset sunstroke!
cold hypothermia, frozen brain!
Long time since last meal = low blood sugar level,hypoglycemia
.Very good session , overwhelmed by endorphins, change of consciousness !
Careful surfing is known to be addictive! :lol: :lol: