Surfing Waves

What were your thoughts just before disaster struck?

Me - "I can make it over that peak!"

"It doesn't look that big"

"nah, I'm not putting on the leash today."

Just one more wave before I go in

"It doesn't look that big"

Just give two thumbs down if there's an emergency.

He is inside of some good sized waves but I used to ride bigger walls on an innertube when I was a kid. We would get these cane truck innertubes that were maybe 5 feet across and maybe 4 to 6 kids would tow it out around the break and into the lineup then catch a wave as it broke. The winner was the one who held on the longest. Ahh the good ol days

I usually laugh, even under water. Not sure if it's nervous laughter or the giggles, but unless I am hurt I am having fun

"It's not going to close out"